Flat roof drainage problem needing solving
- Thread starter pilsbury
- Start date
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Glad to hear the "tunnel" idea isn't pie in the sky. Why would GRP be problematic here? What did lead offer that GRP wouldn't?I can see your idea of "tunnels" through the pitch to shed water ( having made them in lead) - but a fibreglass roof would be problematic
An interesting idea. Just trying to work out in my head how the water collection would work. On the "fake" monopitched tiled roof the gutter is obvious. Just like any roof. What collects the water running off the flat roof under the monopitch? Another gutter?
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I see the issue. I've seen these lead cloaks on roofs before. Suppose continuing the GRP from the flat roof through the tunnel and into a cloak is a possibility but not ideal
I shall investigate this. My initial concern with felt was it was old fashioned and didn't have longevity. But I'm aware you can get decent stuff. The internal drainage is an option but does present some other locating issues. If I could only discharge this water into foul sewer that would be a winner. My foul sewer is right there. Don't think that's allowed though.
Righty then, the meds have kicked in but don't seem to be working.
I'm still none the wiser with the roof design, but it seem that the tiled bits are effectively some sort of perimeter canopy, and the flat sections are at a much lower level?
If that is the case, then you would normally raise the flat roof up to ridge level of the pitched roof, and either have the flaf roof covering lap over the tiles (with no ridge tiles), or have ridge tiles and the flat roof slightly lower than the ridge, and some sort of lead saddle outlet.
You don't really want any outlets or channels going through a pitched roof, as that is a maintenance nightmare.
None perspective plan and elevation views and some sections would help.
I would also seriously think about taking the porch roof straigh across that awkward little gap to join with the garage. In fact that gap should not be there in the first place, and should have been built across.
I'm still none the wiser with the roof design, but it seem that the tiled bits are effectively some sort of perimeter canopy, and the flat sections are at a much lower level?
If that is the case, then you would normally raise the flat roof up to ridge level of the pitched roof, and either have the flaf roof covering lap over the tiles (with no ridge tiles), or have ridge tiles and the flat roof slightly lower than the ridge, and some sort of lead saddle outlet.
You don't really want any outlets or channels going through a pitched roof, as that is a maintenance nightmare.
None perspective plan and elevation views and some sections would help.
I would also seriously think about taking the porch roof straigh across that awkward little gap to join with the garage. In fact that gap should not be there in the first place, and should have been built across.
Just do it anyway. The other way round would be much worse.
Double or triple the dose.Righty then, the meds have kicked in but don't seem to be working.
This is correct. The tiled bits are no more than window dressing for the flat roof. I mentioned I have a phobia of flat roofs, never liked the original garage flat roof when we moved here and was desperate to "fix" that. The flat roof sections are indeed approx 90cm lower than the ridge of the tiled monopitches.
This was mentioned to me by my fater-in-law. I mulled over it for a bit before discounting it purely as I had little idea how to achieve this. In fact it is becoming painfully apparent I have little idea how to achieve most things! If I keep my flat roof at its current suggested 90cm below the ridge of the tiled monopitch, this is bang on for my 290cm ceiling height which will continue seemlessly out of the old original kitchen into my new extension making it seem as one. To raise the roof height to the ridge height of the monopitch leaves me with 2 options in my mind. Either have the new extension ceiling height at approx 380cm, nice and airy but with the step in ceiling heights old to new, or keep the ceiling joists at the same height and build more joists and the warm deck higher up to reach the ridge height..... A lot of work, money for timber and I'm not even sure that is the right way to do things. But the suggestion is taken on board.
I can see this hence me exploring how to either make this easy to maintain, maintenance free or avoid.
I shall try and sort something
This is something I deliberated about when planning and designing this extension. For the effort it was going to take for me to do, I was keen to maximise the space I created. My misses was all up for bringing the full width of the new kitchen extension as far forward as possible - basically a few inches from the principal elevation, right to the boundary to my neighbour's, right up to the garage. I initially thought this was the right move but when I mulled this over I felt that although I had the right to do this, it was bad form on behalf of my neighbours. The photo attached shows down the side of my new build and how my neighbour's front door porch is in relation to us. It is set back and if I built up to the boundary, it would totally enclose their entire entrance and be really oppressive and overbearing. With that in mind, and also to overcome the "shoes in hallway" issue, I decided to stop the full width kitchen extension level with where the full height outhouses were knocked down and then have a porch/bootroom type affair on the front as a side/tradesman's entrance for the family and dog to use on a daily basis. This cured the dumped shoes issue and also stepped the extension in from the boundary. In doing this step in from the neighbour's side, it just seemed right to step in from the garage side for symmetry. It just felt a bit lop-sided to have it joined to the garage, plus I was in porch mentality now.
How on earth could I carry the tiled roof over to the garage? Wouldn't that look daft? To take down the side wall of the porch, cast a small new foundation and build the wall back up makes me want a Dignitas holiday.
Your thoughts are much appreciated. Remember to double the dose before attempting to solve again.
Neighbours side - the brick wall is mine
Wouldn't BC have a fit and make me rip out my tapping into the sewer? He already mentioned briefly about keeping soakaways a good distance from the neighbours.
A combined foul/rainwater sewer would be a god-send. How do I go about finding this out? Would you believe the downpipes on this side of the property just discharge onto the drive!You may find that you have a combined foul / rainwater sewer
When you pour water down one of the rainwater gulley's you won't see it at the foul manhole, meaning you've got separate drains, or vice versa
The older the property the more likely they're combined I think? My last 30s house was combined, my current 60s isn't
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