Flavel cooker hood PCB module - possible repair

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Hi,

The lights blew on my Flavel cooker hood the other day and appears to have damaged a wire on the PCB module.
The fan still works on all speeds and the only damage I can see is the wire running from the light switch on the circuit board has broken apart.

Just wondering if this wire can be soldered together again to reconnect the light circuit ?

Thanks
Hammish
 
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Any advice on what wire type and thickness to use as the broken wire is too short to follow the existing path and looks thicker at some parts of it. sorry my knowledge in this is very poor.

Picture of the broken wire on the PCB


This is the wire I was thinking of using but not sure what gauge it is or if it will be thick enough to replace the broken wire ?

 
No I would go for something heavier & insulated, a piece of bell wire for instance. I am also wondering if there was some sort of component there before it melted.
 
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I am also wondering if there was some sort of component there before it melted.

I had a good look around the cooker for any other part that may have been there before it melted but can't see anything.., either that or its now burnt dust.

I have a bit of insulated wire that looks the same thickness as bell wire so going to try this.

Thanks jj4091
 
No joy,

Soldered new wire on the PCB but no lights with power on. Tested wire and getting continuity from pin to pin.

Tested the other pin to pin on the right hand side of the PCB for continuity, which I have marked in the picture below and not getting any result ?
Was wondering if this is normal or could this be a broken wire as well ?


Any advice is much appreciated
Thanks
 
I was wondering whether that was a track or not , it does seem to have a break in it. If it is then it suggests that the original wire was an attempt to repair a break in the track on the opposite edge of the pcb.. The fact that they are different colours is slightly confusing, the flying lead could be just to connect up a universal pcb for your particular model. Again you have nothing to loose by putting a length of wire across the 2 points you arrowed,but don't leave it switched on for any length of time.
 
Result, lights now working !!

I was wondering whether that was a track or not

Yes jj4091, I think both sides were originally tracks before the lights fused as you say.
The first picture of the PCB I uploaded was taken at a different angle and it is not clear to see but it did look like the track had came away from the board when the lights fused.

The red wire was the one I soldered as an attempted repair and have soldered the black wire to replace the other track which appears to have sorted the problem.

Thanks for your help jj4091

P.S. I had to Google "flying lead" :oops:
 
Well done, perseverance pays. :) I would also suggest that you check that the supply to the hood is protected correctly, ie by a 3 or 5A fuse rather than 13A you need to find out what is required from the instructions. Also is there a cartridge fuse on the component side of the pcb or an in line fuse in the wires going to it & is it the correct rating if there is.
 
The plug going into the house socket has a 5 amp fuse and the cable from the plug socket leads into a round junction box in the hood (see picture) The cable then leads into the pcb and also the fan.

There is no other fuses that I can see, just the 4 switches and couple of small capacitors on the other side of the pcb.

The total output on the fan is 225w
 
The 5A fuse in the plug should provide adequate protection. I would guess either the pcb had been repaired or modified before you got it & continual use has been enough to over strain the tracks. Hopefully it will last you for another few years now. :D
 

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