Float valve? Help please

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Hi, my friend reported a leak coming from her loft, went up there (don't know how as she's very frail) and found a leak but doesn't remember where from.
She tied that piece of string to the float and the leak slowed down.
She took this picture.
IMG-20260121-WA0000.jpg


I called all 4 plumbers I know and they can't get there before February (it's a bummer when you don't give them hundreds of jobs anymore) and I told her not to call the blue van company or anyone from checkabodger and the likes.
So I'm going there myself to see if it's something I can fix.
Her place is a bit of a drive, so I want to get the appropriate tools and parts beforehand, if something is not needed I can take it back.
Now, from the picture and description surely a new float valve is needed.
Anything else?
Is there different kinds/sizes?
What about the pipe entering the tank, would you change that?
I think that the float valve didn't shut water and overflow is blocked, so water either goes over the tank rim or passes through the inlet washer, probably deteriorated.
Please advise.
Thanks
 
1. Looking at the side of the cistern and the lmescale on it I'd suspect it has been overfilling for some years.
2. I'd suggest you take a Part 2 float valve and a new ball. Make sure the ball fits the end of the valve rod.
3. I'd also suggest something to clear the overflow pipe. A (long?) length of net curtain wire can be pretty useful.
4. Hopefully there is an isolation valve under the plastic sheeting. If not, you'll have to use the stopcock, which is probably solid.
5. Based on the above I'd take (in the way of tools)
5.1 A medium sized adjustable spanner.
5.2 A set of grips or a second adjustable spanner.
5.3 Two or three screwdrivers, one a large flat blade, another a PZ2 / PH2 crosspoint.
5.4 Curtain wire as above
5.5 A torch / work light
5.6 A pack of tap connector fibre washers and a couple of spare copper 15mm olives (in case its a compression connector)
5.7 A note of the nearest Screwfix or Toolstation or plumber's merchant.
6. I'd change the entire float valve and ball. Changing the washer only isn't worth the effort.
7. I wouldn't bother with changing the pipework
8. Also have a look at the overflow. If its damaged replace it. But you won't know until you get there.
 
Thank you for taking the time to give me detailed advice.

"A pack of tap connector fibre washers and a couple of spare copper 15mm olives (in case its a compression connector)"
Are you talking about the connection float valve/water inlet pipe?

I let you know how it goes.
 
Would a standard 15mm Pegler isolation valve be ok?
Or it needs a lever valve?
I ask because I have lots of the Pegler at home, the chunky full bore ones.
 
Would a standard 15mm Pegler isolation valve be ok?
Or it needs a lever valve?
I ask because I have lots of the Pegler at home, the chunky full bore ones.
Yeah any will do as long as it’s suitable for potable water, so the Pegler will be sound.
 
The connection to the Ball Valve looks a bit odd, I would take along a 15mm Compression Tap Connector and a short piece of 15mm copper tube, just in case. Feed can be cut back as required, Pegler Valve fitted, then new section of pipe, Tap Connector and Ball Valve in worst case scenario.
 
The connection to the Ball Valve looks a bit odd, I would take along a 15mm Compression Tap Connector and a short piece of 15mm copper tube, just in case. Feed can be cut back as required, Pegler Valve fitted, then new section of pipe, Tap Connector and Ball Valve in worst case scenario.
Yes, great idea.
Renew everything is always best in my books.
Would this tap connector do?

 

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