Floating Oak Beam into Concrete Lintel

[Kendal Jones]

Hi.

I would like to fit a floating oak beam above my AGA on the chimney breast. The beam is 10cm thick and 130cm long and is quite heavy. I intend to place rods into the wall and set with epoxy and then the beam will slide onto the rods.

However, I will need to drill the holes to fit the rods into the concrete lintel.

Will the concrete lintel cope with the drilling and hanging of the oak beam?

Thanks!!

 

[KenGMac]

A lot will depend on the depth of the Concrete lintel? and is it a Pre-Stressed lintel or what??

Ken.

 

[Kendal Jones]

Thanks for your swift response

I believe the lintel runs right to the back wall shown in the photo.

I am unsure what type it is.

 

[Kendal Jones]

.

 

[WoOt]

You can significantly lighten that oak beam by hollowing it out...

 

[Kendal Jones]

good idea - chisel action?

 

[WoOt]

Depends on the oak beam, if you have a picture of it I might be able to advice better. But I'd probably stick with powertools when it comes to oak. Depending on the size, anything from a chainsaw to drilling lots of holes (or a plunge saw or circular saw could work too).

Edit: All this is on the assumption that the oak beam isn't structural, but purely aesthetic.

 

[KenGMac]

I believe the lintel runs right to the back wall shown in the photo.

I am unsure what type it is.

From the image posted, that exposed lintel [or concrete slab??] appears to be in a condition that will accept a steel dowel.

Can I suggest a couple of things.

1/. Drill a small bore hole into the lintel before you go for the dowel hole? to check that the embedded steel reinforcing bar is not in the path of your dowel hole??

2/. To make life easier, I would erect a [sort of a ] scaffold to support the Oak beam during alignment and fitting the Oak beam.

Ken.

 

[domdee]

hollowing out the oak could cause it to warp if there is moisture in the beam, especially if its above heat from the range.

Are you planning on plastering over the brick work? if so some metal straps/brackets screwed to the back of the beam using brass screws, then fastened to the brick work with plenty of fixing points would be more than sufficient imo. Then you can plaster over the fixings.

Countersink all the screws to help sit flush