Floor Joists.

[pete01]

I need my ground floor joists and floorboards replacing in a 1930s house.

The house is empty so should be simple (ish)

Is this something I could attempt?

Any tips?

Where the wood goes into the wall does it need to be covered?

Where the joists lay on bricks in the middle do they need to be on something or directly onto brick?

How does it get fixed down?

When that part is done would you use normal tounge and groove floor boards or sheets of wood?

Im an electrician so I've got all the gear but not much idea about wood

 

[23vc]

I’ve done the odd room, pretty straightforward, use treated joists. Probably best protecting the ends where they’re going into the wall which is presumably below DPC.

Same for resting on the sleeper walls in the middle, I’d probably put a bit of DPC down. Only thing I’d be aware of (may be wrong) is if building control get wind of it being done it might constitute the kind of change that warrants putting insulation in to get it to a decent standard. Also obv check any air bricks are all good/not blocked as part of it for cross air flow.

If you’re having laminate/carpets I’d just use the 6x2 green chipboard stuff, dead easy and quick. Foam glue the t&g joists and screw down.

 

[pete01]

Also obv check any air bricks are all good/not blocked as part of it for cross air flow.

Thats what's caused the rot apparently, so I'll be clearing them out.

If you’re having laminate/carpets I’d just use the 6x2 green chipboard stuff, dead easy and quick. Foam glue the t&g joists and screw down.

Whatever is cheapest and easiest as we are selling.

 

[23vc]

8x2 sorry not 6x2. Piece of cake to lay

 

[pete01]

This type of stuf

18mm P5 MR T&G Chipboard Flooring 2400 x 600mm (8' x 2')

This T & G Flooring Grade Chipboard, also referred to as P5 chipboard, is a moisture-resistant structural grade flooring board. Ideal for flooring applications, the slotted construction of tongue and groove chipboard provides additional strength and durability. Easy to install, this board simple...

www.builderdepot.co.uk

 

[endecotp]

the kind of change that warrants putting insulation in

Would be crazy not to insulate if you're removing the floor anyway, right?

 

[phatboy]

To make it easier on yourself check what size the timbers are now, and replace with the same. One of my rooms was 125x28mm or something like that.

Also check if they do go into the wall, mine didn't and were on sleeper walls in the middle and at the ends, with a DPC under the timber, which was nice.

 

[pete01]

To make it easier on yourself check what size the timbers are now, and replace with the same. One of my rooms was 125x28mm or something like that.

Also check if they do go into the wall, mine didn't and were on sleeper walls in the middle and at the ends, with a DPC under the timber, which was nice.

Yes I was planning to use the same size if still available

 

[23vc]

Would be crazy not to insulate if you're removing the floor anyway, right?

I would and have, yes. Although the amount of heat lost downwards, with a carpet and no draughts coming up, may also be up for debate …

 

[aveatry]

I would and have, yes. Although the amount of heat lost downwards, with a carpet and no draughts coming up, may also be up for debate …

Especially as he is selling

 

[aveatry]

I need my ground floor joists and floorboards replacing in a 1930s house.

The house is empty so should be simple (ish)

Is this something I could attempt?

Any tips?

Where the wood goes into the wall does it need to be covered?

Where the joists lay on bricks in the middle do they need to be on something or directly onto brick?

How does it get fixed down?

When that part is done would you use normal tounge and groove floor boards or sheets of wood?

Im an electrician so I've got all the gear but not much idea about wood

How deep is the gap underneath, is concrete an option.

 

[pete01]

How deep is the gap underneath, is concrete an option.

About 2ft, I did think of that but would all the pipes need relocating?

 

[aveatry]

About 2ft, I did think of that but would all the pipes need relocating?

I wonder if a trench could be left where the central heating pipes run so they would be almost sitting on the concrete floor insulation.

But then what is the point of all of that work if you are selling, you wont get any more for it because you did the best for future option which in my mind is solid with decent insulation.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Concrete won't make sense if you're selling. You probably would need to move the pipes, it's going to cost lots more.

I'd recommend 22mm boards over 18mm, they cost a little more but are vastly less flexible. Providing it won't create a lip where old meets new. Glue the heck out of the joints or you'll end up with a squeaky room like the crap loft extension our previous owner had done. I've just used woodwork glue, much less messy than the foaming stuff and water-based so you can just wipe the surplus off with a sponge and bucket of water while it's wet.

Use an offcut of a board as a protective guard so you can hammer each board tightly into the previous one without mashing up the tongue (or groove). I found it best to fit them tongue-first, after smothering the tongue of the new board with glue. I just relied on gravity and squeezing to get some glue onto the underside of the tongue without making a mess under it, seems to be good enough to me. Definitely 100% squeak-free anyway.