flue / flat roof problem
- Thread starter nick60
- Start date
Sponsored Links
don't know but I'll find out.
Can I ask another question .... these boiler-specific flues, do they really design them so that only the original manufacturer's parts will fit? After all, the design is essentially simple and generic - a couple of concentric tubes. No doubt I am being too simplistic!
Can I ask another question .... these boiler-specific flues, do they really design them so that only the original manufacturer's parts will fit? After all, the design is essentially simple and generic - a couple of concentric tubes. No doubt I am being too simplistic!
I very much doubt that many manus manufacture the flues ! several maybe many ?? share the the same flue design , J&S are or were useing the same flue as Vaillant ect ect , as for extensions 90's 45's ect many are interchangable , however the problem you may well have is the fact that boilers have gone condensing which means that in most (majority ?) cases manuu;s are now useing concentric flues with plastic exhausts (inner flue) any boiler that use's plastic should have a flue stat (overheat) , some condensers did not use plastic ,e.g the early ravenheats , so they did not require a flue stat !! however if a problem occurs & some rules & regs bloke turns up he would no doubt gripe if a particular flue extension was not original manus equipment ??
Which happened to us ounce via a particular manu & one of there service chaps !!
Flue needs 300mm clearance to flat roof.
There arent external extension pieces available for these flues so unless its able to be moved your in trouble there.
There arent external extension pieces available for these flues so unless its able to be moved your in trouble there.
Sponsored Links
OK my builder has sorted it. We're going to use sand/cement ..... and render over the flue outlet.
Only joking!
This all sounds a bit tricky. Pity that the guy who took good money for doing my drawings didn't spot this difficulty .....
Looks like I'll be subbing my neighbour to upgrade that boiler. I've seen the cupboard where it's installed. If they got a modern condenser like mine where the flue exits through an elbow at the top of the boiler I reckon that alone would almost get me the 300mm clearance.
On the other hand, my neighbour's boiler manual does say that a flue elbow kit was available, back in 1992 that was. Just a question of finding one of those, somewhere ....!
Only joking!
This all sounds a bit tricky. Pity that the guy who took good money for doing my drawings didn't spot this difficulty .....
Looks like I'll be subbing my neighbour to upgrade that boiler. I've seen the cupboard where it's installed. If they got a modern condenser like mine where the flue exits through an elbow at the top of the boiler I reckon that alone would almost get me the 300mm clearance.
On the other hand, my neighbour's boiler manual does say that a flue elbow kit was available, back in 1992 that was. Just a question of finding one of those, somewhere ....!
There were for internal installation rather than external.
I presume you were planning a periscope type of setup for it.
basically yes.
The problem I have with all of this is that a flue is such a simple piece of kit. Two concentric metal tubes. I'm an engineer in the aerospace industry and none of my customers would put up with these sh1tty, non-generic design practices. It's just utter nonsense that will probably cost me £1000+ to sort out.
I still have a feeling there's a solution. If I find it I will post it. If you hear nothing, assume I coughed up for a new boiler for my neighbour!
The problem I have with all of this is that a flue is such a simple piece of kit. Two concentric metal tubes. I'm an engineer in the aerospace industry and none of my customers would put up with these sh1tty, non-generic design practices. It's just utter nonsense that will probably cost me £1000+ to sort out.
I still have a feeling there's a solution. If I find it I will post it. If you hear nothing, assume I coughed up for a new boiler for my neighbour!
M
mysteryman
I suppose you could say that an aircraft is just a lightweight tube with seats inside and a couple of wings and engines!
I am sorry to disappoint you.
However, I have no connection with you or your neighbour. That enables me to present a totally unbiased view of the situation.
That is simply that your neighbour has no legal right to discharge over your property.
That means that you have no obligation to have anything to do with relocating his boiler. Thats his total responsibly. You need to write to him pointing this out and giving him a reasonable time, say 28 days, to remove the flue.
As his boiler is old then he will gain at least 12% improvement in efficiency with a modern boiler.
Simple!
Tony
Great idea that one Tony
The day the letter arrived Nick's neighbour would be out with the pick shaft knocking HIS flue out
well i would
Does anybody have good neighbours in London
The day the letter arrived Nick's neighbour would be out with the pick shaft knocking HIS flue out
well i would Does anybody have good neighbours in London
And of course being totally fair and reasonable in accordance with my Libran star sign, then I will give exactly the same advice to Nick's neighbours.
The boiler flues are a bit of a "con". there are only a very few suppliers and the boiler makers choose which one.
But us registered installers do have to buy the product with the makers own name on it even if its the same as another manufacturer's part.
Tony
The boiler flues are a bit of a "con". there are only a very few suppliers and the boiler makers choose which one.
But us registered installers do have to buy the product with the makers own name on it even if its the same as another manufacturer's part.
Tony
M
mysteryman
I can't see any point in getting stroppy with the neighbour, especially when the work done by the OP has made the neighbour's boiler illegal.
If you can still get flue goods for the boiler, it will be best to bring the flue upwards inside his house and then come out through the wall so that there is indeed a min clearance of 300mm below it. If you can't get new flue goods, you will need to reposition the boiler and flue, or replace them.
You can only fit flue goods which are approved by the boiler manufacturer - would you expect anything else?
What all of this means is that you will need advice and work from a professional.
If you can still get flue goods for the boiler, it will be best to bring the flue upwards inside his house and then come out through the wall so that there is indeed a min clearance of 300mm below it. If you can't get new flue goods, you will need to reposition the boiler and flue, or replace them.
You can only fit flue goods which are approved by the boiler manufacturer - would you expect anything else?
What all of this means is that you will need advice and work from a professional.
1
1CANHELP
morning all, I'd welcome advice on this little problem......
[/img]
I'm constructing a new flat roof that abuts my neighbours property - all above board, planning permission, building regs etc etc. Problem is that my neighbours flue is very close to the new roof surface, see pic above. We knew it would be close before we started the job, but since the building inspector wanted upstand ventilation the whole deck is now sitting on battens which has made the problem worse.
My neighbour is happy for me do to whatever I need to do as long as it's gas checked etc. What I'm thinking of doing is adding an elbow + vertical straight section to his flue, then encapsulate the elbow/ base of flue in sand/cement using a bit of shuttering to create a box. I'd put a slope on the top of the box and then flash with lead. I might make a lead cap that completely covers the top of the sand/cement box. What do you think? Any better ideas gratefully received! If I do what I'm planning to do should I do the sand/cement before the roof is finished? (what you see in the picture is just the first layer of felt, roofer is back to finish the job in a week or so)
TIA
Nick
Nick,
You have a problem here! You cannot stick an elbow on the flue and raise it verticaly. Non condensing flues should fall away from the boiler always. This ensures any rain or condensation forming in the flue falls out the end and not onto the heat exchanger. THIS IS THE OPPOSITE FOR A CONDENSING MODEL.
You cant raise upwards inside and then out for reasons explained above and this boiler has only rear or side exit options for the flue.
You may if space permits raise the boiler maintaining the rear flue exit option, however, will need to comply with boiler clearances etc. the flue will need to clear 300mm min from the roof surface to the bottom of the flue, remember flue surface means any upstands.
When this boiler was fitted there were no specific guidelines in place with regards to flues exiting over boundaries, this only came about around 2005 when condensing boilers and pluming problems became apparent.
It is NOT retrospective and no neighbour would be able to force another to move it FACT!
Only option is to:
Raise boiler or
drop roof or
buy your neighbour a new boiler.
If people would only get the true professionals in at the start for advice i.e timeserved tradesmen
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
