Fluorescent light booster won't turn

[Lucky Luke]

Hi. The other day, I needed to replace a fluorescent light tube, and I thought that, while this was being done, it would be a good idea to change the booster as well — which I did. I have no clear memory of how the old booster was taken out, but I would surmise that I must have given it a half or a quarter turn, then pulled it out. After all, isn't that what anyone else would do?

However, when I pushed the new booster in and tried to turn it in order to lock it, it simply would not turn. I even wrapped my fingers in a small sheet of very grippy rubbery material (which has always worked, when something has been tight). Even this did not allow me to turn the booster, though my grip on it was excellent. Luckily, the light does work. However, I like to do things properly and to feel that things are fixed securely. Can anyone tell me why the booster does not turn? (I feel sure that it ought to do.)

By the way, I know that it has been pushed in far enough, by reason of two things. 1) the light comes on. 2) there is only about an eighth of an inch protruding from the light casing. If it could be pushed in further, it would be flush, and therefore could not be turned anyway, being impossible to grip.
Thanks in advance for a helpful reply.
L.L.

 

[chivers67]

Do you mean Starter?

 

[Lucky Luke]

Do you mean Starter?

Yes, that's what I mean.

 

[333rocky333]

I have in the past found some not to turn, i assume they were made wrong size somehow, though more common is that your not fitting it in squarely, sometimes holding the holder within the fitting helps fit it, but should not really be necessary.
however also look closely in the holder,
sometimes they melt and distort a bit usually if they have been left flashing with a faulty tube

 

[Lucky Luke]

I have in the past found some not to turn, i assume they were made wrong size somehow, though more common is that your not fitting it in squarely, sometimes holding the holder within the fitting helps fit it, but should not really be necessary.
however also look closely in the holder,
sometimes they melt and distort a bit usually if they have been left flashing with a faulty tube

Well, this one has been flashing (that's how I knew it needed a replacement, of course), but it was for only a few minutes. I shall inspect inside the hole, when I can get round to it. Also, have another go at inserting it. Meanwhile, it is at least working, and for now, that's the main thing. Thanks for your remarks, Rocky.
Best, L.L.

 

[Lucky Luke]

I have in the past found some not to turn, i assume they were made wrong size somehow, though more common is that your not fitting it in squarely, sometimes holding the holder within the fitting helps fit it, but should not really be necessary.
however also look closely in the holder,
sometimes they melt and distort a bit usually if they have been left flashing with a faulty tube

Rocky, I found a starter, for this fluorescent light, that turns and seats properly. Also, it projects far enough for me to grip it properly to turn it. I can only assume that the reason for the first one not seating properly was to avoid one of the wrong rating being used (would that have been dangerous in some way?). Up until today, I didn't know that there are different ratings. The strange thing is that the one that I first used actually started the tube, even though obviously, it did not seat properly and probably was of the wrong rating. I wonder why, then, there is not a one-size-fits-all starter? The one that I have now discarded states that it is for 75 volts (perhaps 75–100), whereas the one that is now fitted is for 40 volts. It's all a bit confusing to me.
With kind regards,
L.L.

 

[winston1]

All the current starters are the same physical size. There are different types as there are different types of tube with different characteristics.
They never to my knowledge state a voltage.
The most common types are 4 to 65 (80) watts.
Longer tubes 6 foot and 8 foot need starters for 100watts or 125 watts. Using one of these with a 4 foot or 5 foot tube will work but it will be slow to start.
There are also series starters for two small tubes in series. If you use one of these with a 4 foot or 5 foot tube it will continousy flash.

 

[Lucky Luke]

All the current starters are the same physical size. There are different types as there are different types of tube with different characteristics.
They never to my knowledge state a voltage.
The most common types are 4 to 65 (80) watts.
Longer tubes 6 foot and 8 foot need starters for 100watts or 125 watts. Using one of these with a 4 foot or 5 foot tube will work but it will be slow to start.

Thanks for the clarification, Winston. Yes, I ought to have stated watts, not volts. However, the ones that I have do state a voltage, in addition to the wattage. They even state the length of tube that they are suitable for. Also, the one that I tried to fit at first was a bit shorter than the one it replaced (not much, but enough for it to be almost impossible to grip, when pulling out or trying to twist in. I could only hold the protruding end with my finger-nails). However, what you say tells me that, if it were possible to fit and lock one in that is more powerful than is needed, it would not be dangerous to use. I'm grateful for the information you provided, thanks.
L.L.

 

[bernardgreen]

They never to my knowledge state a voltage.

 

[Lucky Luke]

There are different types as there are different types of tube with different characteristics.

I should be grateful if you or anyone else can tell me the meaning/purpose of the large code-number that shows on these starters. For example, the one that I fitted yesterday (which was the correct one, because it locks in and it works) shows the code P6SU. When I looked on eBay (just to get a clearer picture, in case I need to buy more), the code number shown on most of these is FS U. I would be concerned about buying in ignorance, and buying the wrong type.
L.L.

 

[winston1]

View attachment 209535

That is clearly wrongly marked. It is a series type for 2 up to 20w tubes in series although it can be used for one such tube as well. When used in series mode it will be at 120v.

 

[Lucky Luke]

That is clearly wrongly marked. It is a series type for 2 up to 20w tubes in series although it can be used for one such tube as well. When used in series mode it will be at 120v.

Thanks for that, winston1.

 

[bernardgreen]

That is clearly wrongly marked. It is a series type for 2 up to 20w tubes in series

Yes it is a starter for a two tube lamp where the lamps share one ballast, my error in choosing that as an example of a starter with a voltage rating on the label.
This is the RS page for the starter LINK
This is the RS data sheet DATA

The data sheet shows that each tube has its own starter

This is a starter for a lamp with single tube

image from HERE

 

[winston1]

Yes it is a starter for a two tube lamp where the lamps share one ballast, my error in choosing that as an example of a starter with a voltage rating on the label.
This is the RS page for the starter LINK
This is the RS data sheet DATA

I still maintain marking it as 220/240v is misleading. I use such starters in my jukebox which uses one 20w and several 8w tubes singly on a 115v supply from an auto transformer for the whole juke box.

 

[333rocky333]

I should be grateful if you or anyone else can tell me the meaning/purpose of the large code-number that shows on these starters. For example, the one that I fitted yesterday (which was the correct one, because it locks in and it works) shows the code P6SU. When I looked on eBay (just to get a clearer picture, in case I need to buy more), the code number shown on most of these is FS U. I would be concerned about buying in ignorance, and buying the wrong type.
L.L.

FSU means Fluorescent Starter Universal, though why its called that i dont know as it only does some not all, single tubes, usually 4watt to 65watt mainly.
All are physically same connection, though as you found some cases vary shape, why some are tight, who knows.

The codes can be a bit of a minefield, never seen P6 before, its likely a personal manufacturers code.
Best thing is to say what tube you have or post a picture of the writing on the end.

The main 2 starters you are likely to ever need are,

FSU 4-65 watt these will do 2ft 20watt,4ft 36watt and 5ft 58watt, single tubes amongst less popular other sizes.
Fs125 will mainly do 6ft 70watt single tube but ensure it has 70w stamped on it, 6ft is a temperamental size, one marked 75w 6ft is not the same as one specifically marked 70w 6ft.

As a guide ensure the **W printed on the tube is also printed on the starter., ie 58W is within the range of a 4-65w starter, its as simple as that.
Uk starters should all be the correct voltage you need 220-240 volt, the only series starters with different voltages stamped on them will likely state 4-22 watts on them and its unlikely your tubes are within that wattage range anyway.
These are mainly in 4 tube commercial lights, where as Winston implies they series two lamps together.