full tile at verge? simple novice question

[mattu27]

Morning all,

Hoping to tile a small lean to roof (4 rows) that buts upto the house. Should I have a full tile at the verge end or the side that abuts the house? Spacing current works out so there are no little slithers either way it's done. Using Marley ashmores if it makes any difference.

Also can I fit lead soakers with these tiles?

Thanks, Matt

 

[datarebal]

A full tile on one verge course and half on next.
Soakers do work , a secret gutter might be easier .

 

[mattu27]

Thanks for the reply. Went with a full tile and 3/4 of a tile to stagger the joints. Just struggling with the lead details now.
Unsure how to finish the lowest soaker that sits on the fascia. And finishing the top leadwork at the verge end. Does this just fold over the side?

 

[datarebal]

side of what? post a picture

 

[mattu27]

Apologies for the photos, these were what I took earlier. The right side fascia will be coming off as I'm not happy with it. Was unsure about the bottom lead soaker so folded it down over the fascia.

 

[datarebal]

Nearly correct but not quite.
The tile you cut as an L shape could have been straight.
Before you fitted that tile and soaker you should have formed an apron which weathers the top of the first tile.After that soaker and tiles up to the top.

 

[mattu27]

Thanks again, I did cut the tile straight at first but went against it as it didn't look right. I might nip it off if it still doesn't look the part.

With regards to the apron, should I have formed the first soaker up over the eaves tile then? I've had to leave the cement board out from under the first tile as it just wouldn't fit.

Any chance you could post a picture or a quick sketch as I'm having no joy on google.

Should the step flashing turn around the corner at the top of the run and sit under the top flashing?

Thanks

 

[datarebal]

A quick knock up from scrap.
This will sit on the top of the tile before the L cut and soaker which will basically empty onto to this .
You will need to chase out a joint for your actual flashings

 

[mattu27]

Couldn't have asked for a better example! So the lead drops over the side of the tile and is formed tight to the fascia below I'm guessing?

I've been making the top flashings this morning (although it's bloody hot!) and some lead hooks to support the run every .75m, I've gone for 1.5m lengths of flashing as the roof is 4.1m so should give me enough for a 150mm overlap with a little spare for wrapping round the top outer corner.

Will put a photo up to update.

Thanks

 

[datarebal]

This simply sits on the top of the first tile. its dressed to suit the corner and the side will cover the edge of that tile by about 100 mm .. it does not go near the fascia.

If you search calders guide to good lead work you should see the basic idea there. it's free online

 

[mattu27]

Thanks again, I did look through the Calder's guide which gave me the info about the lead hooks (50mm wide?) but couldn't see anything clear about the edge details.

I think I did see something saying that soakers shouldn't be used with Interlocking tiles but I like the look of step flashings over cloak and it does sort of work.

I've added a few photos of the setup so far, turns out I did make a mini cloak flashing but cut it short so it wasn't shown. Guessing I need to redo this.

My first soaker under the eaves tile, I know I've done it wrong but how do I cover the gap between the fascia? as I can't fit a verge board. Is this soaker even needed?

Is the small upturn on the soakers needed? I was advised to add them on.



Thanks

 

[datarebal]

that will work. yes you can use soakers on interlocking tiles.
I would not have used a soaker under the first course. i would use a bedded short verge and te apron would have weathered the first course.
your neighbour is 100 % correct turning up the edges. A support is advisable part way up each soaker to prevent slump over time

 

[^woody^]

That cut tile will break, you can be certain of it. You may want to put a blob of silicone under the square bit to keep it in place when it does if you're not having lead over the top of it

 

[mattu27]

Thanks again, I may remove the lowest soaker and replace with verge board or trim the lead a little neater. It's mainly covered by the downpipe and guttering anyway.

I'll fit a support for the soakers, an additional lath across the rafters?

I'm hoping the tile doesn't break but will silicone anyway.

just to confirm, as my tiles protrude a fair way from the front of the house do I need to wrap the bottom of the step flashing around the front of the brickwork as well? Say an inch? Or just finish flush with the brickwork?

And at the top of the step flashing where the cloak meets it, the Calder's guide shows an internal corner with a welded lead gusset. This is a little beyond my skill set so do I just take the cloak flashing tight to the corner or have a small corner of say 1"?

Thanks

 

[datarebal]

You don't need to weld anything
It's a simple boss.
All other details are in my previous posts