Gap Between Floors In New Extension

[foxhole]

The floors don't seem to be level. The floorboards seem to be about 3mm higher than the new caberdeck floor in the extension. I'm hoping that with fitting underlay and then carpet, being slightly out of level by a few mm won't be that noticeable, especially in the doorway.

Bricks need to be cut back to allow timber right thru , you will need a threshold strip on the carpet edge in a doorway which will accommodate an undulation between the two rooms.

 

[alexpuk2002]

Very much doubt those bricks in the doorway are the arch bricks

It would make sense that they are the archway bricks as the doorway is literally directly above where it is.

 

[danfre]

The bricks in the doorway are laid flat, the arch bricks are upright

 

[Dereekoo]

It's such an easy fix one the bricks are gone, its laughable.


Jeezus H Christ.

As you can see if you don't follow noseall the jobbing builders advice he takes exception

 

[aveatry]

As you can see if you don't follow noseall the jobbing builders advice he takes exception

He is probably the best person to help this chap but instead he persists on being a tw4t

 

[catlad]

My first choice would be to go with a thin piece of ply, bedded on foam with a lot of weight until set, but from the picture I'm not sure you have the room?

 

[Dereekoo]

Mix some 3 to 1 mortar, fill in all the gaps in the brickwork so you are left with whatever heights to the required floor level (2 -9mm?) and then when the mortar has hardened off finish with a self levelling screed (they are not actually self levelling so you will have to trowel or tamp off to suit between the floors

Changed my mind, would bring mortar all the way up to level in one go and forget the self levelling so that its all held down in a monolithic block and tied in to brickwork gaps, may even put some nails into joist for mortar to tie into. Apologies to noseall who will now have a fit.

 

[stevie888]

Let's try a bit of logic here: OP why not give us an actual dimension: put a straight edge across the gap and measure the depth of build up.

Unless you have tiny joists you can lift out one course of brick without affecting the room below to give yourself options but if you have a few mm then there are repair epoxies that will work in thin layers. Forget self levelling: what that stuff does do is find holes to flow through.

Personally I'd adopt Dereekoo's last suggestion and (making sure I had 50mm min depth) fill the gap with a semi dry 4:1 mix of sharp sand cement.

Bound to ask why the builder doidn't sort it?

 

[aveatry]

Let's try a bit of logic here: OP why not give us an actual dimension: put a straight edge across the gap and measure the depth of build up.

Unless you have tiny joists you can lift out one course of brick without affecting the room below to give yourself options but if you have a few mm then there are repair epoxies that will work in thin layers. Forget self levelling: what that stuff does do is find holes to flow through.

Personally I'd adopt Dereekoo's last suggestion and (making sure I had 50mm min depth) fill the gap with a semi dry 4:1 mix of sharp sand cement.

Bound to ask why the builder doidn't sort it?

It seems like he only has a few - like you was we need some measurements.
Those half bricks will not be the ones downstairs as you have the depth of the joist first.

 

[noseall]

Personally I'd adopt Dereekoo's last suggestion and (making sure I had 50mm min depth) fill the gap with a semi dry 4:1 mix of sharp sand cement.

Perhaps you and dreeko are not seeing the timber joists bearing onto the masonry? It does NOT need or require any mortar anywhere near that gap. It's a silly suggestion.

Remove the top course bricks. Add cradling timber. Fit the deck. Have a cup of tea.

 

[noseall]

Bricks need to be cut back to allow timber right thru , you will need a threshold strip on the carpet edge in a doorway which will accommodate an undulation between the two rooms.

Correct. Continuity of the deck will be beneficial when it comes time for fitting carpets etc. It's not a difficult fix.

 

[noseall]

After further investigation it appears that the bricks that are close to the new extension floor form part of an exposed feature wall

Only if your floor joists are less than 1" deep.

 

[^woody^]

Because of the difference in levels/ heights/ angles I'd steer away from messing about with timber blocking and board.

Rather, go with a poured leveling solution. Bear in mind the need to secure any loose bricks, fill joints, pack any perimeter gaps, dampen the surfaces and use a bonding agent. Then select a suitable product or make your own with cement, SBR and fine sand.

 

[aveatry]

Because of the difference in levels/ heights/ angles I'd steer away from messing about with timber blocking and board.

Rather, go with a poured leveling solution. Bear in mind the need to secure any loose bricks, fill joints, pack any perimeter gaps, dampen the surfaces and use a bonding agent. Then select a suitable product or make your own with cement, SBR and fine sand.

As it will be on wood joists and bordering wood floor would that method eventually crack and break up with movement.? Especially when holes are also drilled for threshold bar

 

[^woody^]

As it will be on wood joists and bordering wood floor would that method eventually crack and break up with movement.? Especially when holes are also drilled for threshold bar

It's a solid wall, so any suitable wet product properly adhered will not move or break and the movementof those old joists will be minimal. But yes some mesh could be used over the joist to deal with any risk.

There should not be a significant amount of movement of the floor to affect the fill edges, but some foam/rubber strip could deal with any movement - eg self adhesive draught strip.