garage door insulation

[mrcrow]

my up and over garage door...2060 wide split into 3 zones by the framing 675/530/675mm
the available space between the door panel and the opening rods is 40-45mm
i see my local builders merchant stock
Recticel Eurothane Gp Insulation Board 2400 x 1200 x 40mm at £30.70 a board and will deliver free as i will be buying 2 boards
i am not sure what to use to fix these and which tape to use to do the joints
any advice welcome
cheers
geof

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Glue it on (Gripfill non solvent). Wouldn't bother taping the joins unless your door is full of holes, if you really want to then 25mm or 50mm foil tape from Toolstation or wherever is convenient https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+&+Sealants/d180/Tapes/sd2420/Aluminium+Foil+Tape/p97723.

Just be aware up and over doors aren't made with a lot of spare capacity in the open/close rods and rollers, PIR doesn't weigh a lot but it doesn't weigh nothing either.

Draughtproofing the gaps between door and frame should be cheaper and will make a bigger difference to your comfort level in there.

 

[mrcrow]

Glue it on (Gripfill non solvent). Wouldn't bother taping the joins unless your door is full of holes, if you really want to then 25mm or 50mm foil tape from Toolstation or wherever is convenient https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+&+Sealants/d180/Tapes/sd2420/Aluminium+Foil+Tape/p97723.

Just be aware up and over doors aren't made with a lot of spare capacity in the open/close rods and rollers, PIR doesn't weigh a lot but it doesn't weigh nothing either.

Draughtproofing the gaps between door and frame should be cheaper and will make a bigger difference to your comfort level in there.

i like that username....old but not dead...or...still breathing...like me..

good advice and thanks...i have ordered top and bottom seals to do the gaps which are around 12mm top and bottom the metal door structure doesnt quite touch the top seal bar or the concrete stepped threshold.
the door has fitted upvc side panels which overlap the side framing on the inside verticals enough to cut down any storm wind..
i am a toolstation fan so i will get some tape there just to cover my jointing work..i have a small second fix saw to do the insulation but there might be some variations at the gaps
the weight situation hadnt really occurred to me...so i will do some calculations on the weight of the insulation and assess the weight of the 40 then see if a 35 or 30mm thickness might be necessary
its the bearings which really will be receiving the extra weight so they will get some attention regarding lubrication.

i am considering a small heater as well...it may not be necessary thought and have thought oil filled with a control panel... or infra for some instant heat and control it on the wall socket.

many thanks again..will be doing it soon..
cheers
geof

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Use a batten as a saw guide when you're cutting the panels (and use a facemask, the dust isn't nice).

 

[mrcrow]

Use a batten as a saw guide when you're cutting the panels (and use a facemask, the dust isn't nice).

Good! I never think on things like that, got a mask too
Cheers
GEOF

 

[Tigercubrider]

I did similar as I spend a lot of time in there
I added timber and draught excluder to ensure a good seal, including a rubber strip at the base for weather and draughts
I also used the silver thin insulation over the door inside partly to aid reflection of light

 

[mrcrow]

I did similar as I spend a lot of time in there
I added timber and draught excluder to ensure a good seal, including a rubber strip at the base for weather and draughts
I also used the silver thin insulation over the door inside partly to aid reflection of light

we were toying with the silver foil which i thought might be good for light reflection as well
mrs toad was not keen on the look of it so it was then i thought of alternatives re: slab insulation
the present consensus is that i can fit the slab insulation and tape or fill any joints and then paint over it with dulux trade vinyl matt brilliant white...which the rest of the garage is painted...
we will use the garage for the laundry and to keep the car in...insurance reasons
i have tiled the floor in neoprene tiling which has a waffle back and is warm to the feet..as in cold concrete slab.. and soft and very cleanable..so cleaning out after any diy jobs by vacuuming and mopping is easy
i have installed last week a suspended ceiling which i will insulate later as the heating of the garage is decided...not essential really...but the door insulation/sealing is really to help stop migration to the outside of any heat...the door is metal.. when its really cold and windy.....its a moot point just now whether it will stop all the heat or be obvious of any measurable effect..except to make the place seem sound damped... any temporary occupational use, and we may install an oil heater or IR lamps..for that..and would be on for only those times..
i have installed in the suspended ceiling led spots and they light the place adequately and i can add any if required for temp use.
the garage is attached with one long wall double skin blockwork the other is single skin..you can see the pier...and the back wall also is single sking...all the doors are upvc exterior doors insulated and fully lockable.

IMG_20180809_114641 by mrcrow_uk, on Flickr

C by mrcrow_uk, on Flickr

cheers..and thanks for your advice...i wont proceed really until the penny drops in my head before it leaved my wallet (card);;
geof

 

[oldbutnotdead]

No immediate need to do anything about it but I'd go the oil filled radiator myself- those IR heaters warm people rather than things (of course if all you want is a quick blast of warm when you're out there playing then the IR may suit you better).

 

[Tigercubrider]

Heating a garage along with the house is pretty much a non starter due to crap insulation, no matter what you do to the door

My gas boiler is in the garage, on the back wall near my workbench. It's on the wall of the utility room Once I head towards the front, where my bikes live, the temperature drops a fair bit. The boiler gives a warmth circle of about 6 feet.
I sometimes use a halogen lamp to work by, just for the extra heat it gives off.

 

[mrcrow]

No immediate need to do anything about it but I'd go the oil filled radiator myself- those IR heaters warm people rather than things (of course if all you want is a quick blast of warm when you're out there playing then the IR may suit you better).

thanks...i favour the oil filled myself and just have read about IR...there were comments about what they really heated...and you have supported that observation...they dont heat the air...sort of microwave principle..??
also the mounting of them i have discovered really have to be high on a wall or hung from the rafters...which are now covered up with nice new armstrong ceiling tiles..!!
the oil one which i fancied is by the dimplex Q-Rad**** it is programmable and comes on in advance of when you need it...or off of course..that means the laundry area where i will site it primarily will have the chill taken off it since we do a daily laundry just as we get out of bed...around 8am and mrs crow will have a cosy envelope of air to walk into to set the machine off...i usually wear a fleece in the garage at winter but i am looking for a bit of comfort as well...and when i am doing any diy etc in there...i dont work on the car any more except to change filters..i have a friendly garage who doesnt charge a lot for servicing and the like.
cheers and thanks again
its all shaping up....edit **** that dimplex model isnt an oil heater!!!
think again geof...
geof

 

[mrcrow]

Heating a garage along with the house is pretty much a non starter due to crap insulation, no matter what you do to the door

My gas boiler is in the garage, on the back wall near my workbench. It's on the wall of the utility room Once I head towards the front, where my bikes live, the temperature drops a fair bit. The boiler gives a warmth circle of about 6 feet.
I sometimes use a halogen lamp to work by, just for the extra heat it gives off.

that seems to suit...//my gas boiler is near the garage wall just inside the house...i had thought of getting tails put through the wall and piping a long low rad down the wall next to the house with a thermostatic valve and set that quite low....i could shut it off as well with that valve..but mrs crow wants the heater up her end next to the laundry stuff...nothing is written in blockwork yet..//
thanks
geof

 

[scbk]

What about some sort of partition between laundry end and rest of garage. Even just a curtain or clear plastic sheet/tarp would help keep the heat in that end.

 

[mrcrow]

What about some sort of partition between laundry end and rest of garage. Even just a curtain or clear plastic sheet/tarp would help keep the heat in that end.

that is what my daughter suggested...a heavy curtain...and i think that answers my idea of keeping that end warmer...
thanks
geof

 

[scbk]

If you want to let the light through, google pvc strip curtains, like they have on walk in chillers

 

[mrcrow]

If you want to let the light through, google pvc strip curtains, like they have on walk in chillers

funnily enough that kind of thing entered my head....
thanks
geof