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Insulating a detatched garage (novice).

Discussion in 'Building' started by MiscFiles, 21 Mar 2017.

  1. MiscFiles

    MiscFiles

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    Apologies in advance for the stupid questions. I'd rather make them on here, than when I place my orders...

    I have a detatched garage of roughly 3 x 5m, which I'm planning to use as home studio. The previous owner started to convert it, by replacing the garage door with a double-glazed three-panel patio door. The walls are a single brick-width thick, and I think there may have been some moisture in the past, as the previous owner used it as a laundry room. I have not seen any moisure in the room in the five years that I've owned the property.

    I'm trying to keep the costs down as much as possible, and I only have about £500 to put towards this right now. Would something like this insulated plasterboard do the job, or would I be better buying this insulation board and then fitting plasterboard over it?

    Do I need to build a stud wall, or can the insulation be fixed directly to the brick?
    If it is required, what size/type of timber do I need, and how should the insulation be fixed to it?

    There is a DPC in the brick walls. Do I need to fit a damp proof membrane, and if so, where does that go?

    Anything else that I'm missing?

    Again, sorry for the newbie questions.
    IMG_20170304_164002.jpg
     
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  3. endecotp

    endecotp

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    You could use either of those.
    The Seconds & Co cheap insulation has been mentioned favourably here a few times.
    You should check exactly what the Gyproc Basic product is, as I think they have a product that is polystyrene rather than PIR, meaning it is significantly less insulating for any given thickness. Also check if the quoted thickness includes the plasterboard.
    You can fix either dot-and-dab or using mechanical fixings. Or you can build studs and fit the insulation between and then fix the plasterboard to the studs. If you look at the Celotex and Kingspan websites you'll find application notes describing their recommended methods of fixing for most applications.

    What are you going to do to the floor? And the ceiling?
     
  4. MiscFiles

    MiscFiles

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    Thanks for the feedback.

    I'm planning to use rockwool and plasterboard for the ceiling. I'm not sure about the floor. It's less of a priority, to be honest.

    Would dot-and-dab be suitable for a single skin brick wall? Would I need to add a DPM or vapour control layer between the brick and the insulation?
     
  5. Tigercubrider

    Tigercubrider

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    is this a music studio?

    I have done one and it is very soundproof but cost a lot more than £500
     
  6. MiscFiles

    MiscFiles

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    The hope is for it to become a hobby music studio. Most of the music recording will be done on headphones, so I'm not looking to soundproof properly, but a bit of a reduction would be good. I'm really looking to keep the warmth in a bit, rather than letting it straight out of the open ends of the roof. At the moment, I can reach over the top of the bricks and my hand will poke down behind the fascia into the open air. Insulating and boarding the ceiling is an easy win, but I'd really like to do something with the walls as well.

    The budget and my lack of experience are definitely the limiting factors!
     
    Last edited: 22 Mar 2017
  7. s11DIY

    s11DIY

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    I am in the same situation, would be very interested to know the exact way / steps.
     
  8. motorbiking

    motorbiking

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    You have to look at this objectively. The current building is likey to have an avg U value of around 3 or more. You could probably get this under 1 with a 50mm+12mm insulated plasterboard. double the budget and you could get this under 0.3. but that extra money will pay the heating bill difference for the time you use it. probably for 10 years.

    personally i'd go with this or the celotex equivalent if you can get a good deal
     
  9. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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