Garage Tap - Tee into Existing Copper Pipe

Joined
10 Dec 2014
Messages
178
Reaction score
3
Location
West Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi guys,

I’m looking to fit an outdoor tap in my garage so I can connect an hosepipe to wash the car etc. Now the main water supply pipe coming into the house (garage is part of the house) is located in the garage with the main stopcock. This is a vertical copper pipe which is currently boxed in with wood in the back corner of the garage (has a access panel for the stopcock). I haven’t yet measured the pipe but I suspect its 22mm (maybe larger, I’ll just assume its 22mm for moment). So my plan is to fit a compression reducing tee piece (i.e. the branch will be 15mm) after the main stopcock, and then connect 15mm copper pipe to this using compression fittings (and an isolator) and on to an outdoor tap. All pretty straightforward so far.

My problem comes when cutting into the 22mm supply pipe, 2 issues here. The pipe is very solid and has very little play, and access to cut it is very limited. With this in mind:

• How can I insert the tee piece as the pipes have no moment at all? I can’t just cut the pipes the same size as the tee piece as the pipes need to go inside the tee? No enough movement on the pipes to bend them and get the tee piece on, and I think if I try to force it, it will damage connections further up/down the pipe etc.

• I need a clean cut on the pipe, what’s the best way to cut through existing pipe? Hacksaw won’t do it as not enough space, and I think a Dremal would prove difficult as well. Must be tool out there to cut into existing pipe with limited access?

Any ideas guys? Links to the bits I need would be useful!

Thanks
Matt
 
Sponsored Links
I would use a slip fitting. John Guest do slip tees or you could still use brass with a tee and a slip coupler.
 
Thanks for the reply. I can't seen to find a slip fitting tee piece on the net? Could you post a link to one?

Thanks again.
 
Sponsored Links
Yes it is perfectly good with copper. Make sure the cuts are square and have no burrs.
 
Great just the job! I'll get one ordered! Feels odd using plastic pipe, is it as robust as copper? The entire water supply for the house will be going through it that's all, just a bit concerned
 
Perfectly ok for your water supply. Google John Guest fittings areas up for your own peace of mind. If still unsure then use brass as suggested earlier. Any good plumbers supplier will be able to assist.
 
The plumbers mate ( in Eastbourne But also online ) have a 22 mm slip compression coupling :idea: you could use this and a brass tee . You will need a double check valve on the supply to the tap . Maybe too late to Un - order the pipeslice , but us plumbers managed for years with a junior hacksaw in tight spots until the slice was invented ,compression fittings will work with a hacksaw cut tube - plastic O ring fittings need a pipeslice to provide a rounded edge ( in my opinion ;) )
 
If using a hacksaw, just remember to deburr the outside of the pipe, had to fix a few burst seals in push fittings because a DIY'er didn't file down the pipe and burst them when inserting into the fitting.
 
The plumbers mate ( in Eastbourne But also online ) have a 22 mm slip compression coupling :idea: you could use this and a brass tee . You will need a double check valve on the supply to the tap . Maybe too late to Un - order the pipeslice , but us plumbers managed for years with a junior hacksaw in tight spots until the slice was invented ,compression fittings will work with a hacksaw cut tube - plastic O ring fittings need a pipeslice to provide a rounded edge ( in my opinion ;) )

Fantastic I think I'd prefer using compression brass slip and tee. I'll get them! You can get double check valve taps so that should be ok I suspect?

Thanks guys
 
Can someone explain how these slip compression couplers work? How do the compress the olive if they have no stop inside them?

So i'm thinking of getting my tee piece and putting a short length of 22mm copper pipe each side of it, and then cutting into the supply pipe the exact same length of the tee/pipe combo. Is that how you do it? Or do the couplers need a slight gap between each pipes they are joining?

Thanks again :)
 
The sloped faces cut on either end of a compression fitting, one on the nut at the top of the thread as you look into it, the other on the inside top edge of the fitting is what the olive is compressed by when you tighten the nut, sealing it against the pipe.

Cut a small section of pipe out and pulling the pipe out a little then slip the coupler on one end until all the way onto the pipe, let the pipe go and the ends line up then slip it back up onto the other end, tighten both ends up.

I'd still use the speedfit coupler, much less work and easier to install IMO
 
The sloped faces cut on either end of a compression fitting, one on the nut at the top of the thread as you look into it, the other on the inside top edge of the fitting is what the olive is compressed by when you tighten the nut, sealing it against the pipe.

Cut a small section of pipe out and pulling the pipe out a little then slip the coupler on one end until all the way onto the pipe, let the pipe go and the ends line up then slip it back up onto the other end, tighten both ends up.

I'd still use the speedfit coupler, much less work and easier to install IMO

OK thanks. The speed fit coupler just looks very bulky, and my mind says that copper/brass is better than plastic?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top