Garage Wall Replacement

[andderson365]

My detached garage has water coming in at ground level, I think that I have fixed the rear wall by digging a trench and dropping the ground level but the 7M long side wall has soil and debris about 2-3" above ground level. I have no access to clear this area as I did with the back of the garage as my neighbour has built a fence leaving only a 15cm gap so I have no space to work.

I an wanting to get this sorted in a dry spell in the coming weeks so wanted to know how practical it would be to knock down the side wall and move it 30-50cm inwards to give me access to dig it out. I would then replace it with a dwarf wall of brick and a timber side wall on top.

Has anyone done this themselves, I can only find the odd youtube video on it so any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[DAZB]

What kind of fence has your neighbour built as lap panels or other fence styles set between concrete posts can be lifted upwards and if your neighbour is the reasonable sort he/she may assist. A photo or two would help people give clearer advice.

 

[andderson365]

Thanks DAZB, a few pictures as follows.

Its not a cheap shiplap fence, traditional fence boards against posts cemented in. Its also brand new so less inclined to have me remove bits of it. To be fair its a nice fence, just in a bad location for me.

Dirt and stone is 1.5 bricks deep.

My other thought was to knock out small sections of the wall to allow me to dig the external was from the inside and have them patched up later. Just another bodge job on my cowboy garage.

 

[Koolpc]

Can you prop up and remove one section at a time, doing what you need to do then brick up and move to next section?

 

[Charlie George]

If the ground was soft and you had access from both ends i would try raking it out with a narrow rake attached to a metal pole, would be a lot easier than taking out the wall, and how would you point up the replaced sections of brickwork?

 

[Murdochcat]

Why not talk to your neighbour and see if they would allow you to remove the fence enabling access? Then reinstate.

This is for maintenance and your neighbour can’t really stop you

 

[cdbe]

Plus one for the "rake" approach. Presumably you can get on the roof and break it up from above with a long pole, something like a scaffold tube with a flattened end. It could be adapted for dragging the spoil back with a partner pulling a rope attached to the bottom end.

I'm afraid to mention internal tanking as it seems to be considered the spawn of the devil - although personally I've had excellent and long lasting success on my own waterlogged garage (plan B was some kind of duckboard on the floor to keep my feet dry) with a carefully installed SBR bonded sand/cement fillet.

 

[andderson365]

Thanks all, turns out I was in luck and the neighbours allowed me to take the fence down while they are away for a week.

Half way along the wall but the bottom 1.5 bricks was covered by thick mud. Looking at the mortar gaps its not really a surprise that I had water getting in.

I plan to clear the second half out, wash it all clean with a hose and run an angled mortar filet along the entire base. Not much space for a trench of any kind but I got maybe 6" out with a trowel.

Any other suggestions beyond the mortar filet here?

I have a few more days to get this finished and the fence back up.

 

[Doitproper]

While you have access may be worthwhile drilling a couple of drainage holes (if thats possible) to reduce liklihood of water building up in the future

 

[andderson365]

Thanks, that's not a bad idea, probably the only time I will get access.

Someone at the local DIY suggested putting BlackJack or Tanking slurry along the bottom bricks and slab on the outside before putting the mortar fillet in. Any thoughts on this? don't want to go wasting money but I would like it to be sorted this time.

 

[Doitproper]

I'm sure blackjack / tanking will help but you dont want to raise the outside unless there is a good drainage path. Ideally, break out some concrete and lay either a gutter or half round pipe with a slight fall which is below the lower course of bricks with a mortar bench so water cant get trapped in the area. When the pipe / gutter has filled with krud in the future a drop scraper can easily be used to clear it from the end. Putting in a fillet is unlikely to work if there is standing water.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Just power wash, leave it to dry then point it. Leave it to breathe. Any sort of waterproofing is more likely to seal water in than out. Water will be constantly wicking up from the ground, if you stop it evaporating to the outside then the only route will be to the inside.

But if your garage floor is below the DPC, as is normal, then some damp will always be just a reality, as is also normal.

 

[DAZB]

I would install a perforated land drain like this...

60mm x 25m (£24.74) Perforated Land Drain Coil

60mm Perforated Land Drain x 25m Coil

skyplastics.co.uk

Other sizes are available but a 60mm would work well. Wrap it in landscape fabric and it can then be covered with bark, gravel, pebbles etc.... and will divert the water down past the garage where it can be directed to a drain or soakaway.

 

[Doitproper]

There will always be damp in the bricks but I expect the issue is water seeping though the wall and ponding (albeit slightly) on the inside and not moisture wicking up the bricks. Experienced this with a conservatory where the base course of bricks were set on the patio – same level inside and out. Not a massive puddle but a visible wet patch noticeable on the dry (inside) concrete floor.

Getting it all cleaned up is first step (also good to get the pointing done). If the garage floor is above the top of the concrete outside this is likely to sort it (until the muck builds up again), but if a small puddle can form next to the wall it is likely to work its way through and you need to eliminate any water puddling adjacent to the bricks.

Putting a fillet in may help initially (until water finds its way through the fillet). However, I would also consider a sloping render (screed) on top of the concrete outside so that water cis unable to pond on the concrete – I assume your neighbour hasnt a concrete path that traps the water.

Key is avoiding any standing water adjacent to the bricks.

. . . . and just a thought that you dont have a drip from the garage roof, which saturates the wall and results in water draining out of the bricks on the inside.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

The problem with any barrier of any sort (fillet, render or waterproof paint), is that none of them are one-way - all are just as capable of trapping water in as out. The only possible exception is a waterproofing cream paint, which allegedly allow vapour to evaporate - in reality I'd assume that they do at least reduce the evaporation.

If you put a fillet in then yes it will push anything landing on top of it outwards. But that dribble coming down a perp joint is likely to get behind it and be pushed into the wall and is physically prevented from flowing outwards.

We had a rendered skirting from just above the DPC to the ground at our last house. Total nightmare, it had peeled away at the top so I had to botch some sealant in. It was always wet behind it though, as the wicking groundwater had nowhere to go.

Definitely point it and clean. A land drain would be a very good idea. If the concrete foundation has any protruding blobs that might hold water against the wall then chip them off. I'd be inclined to skim with an SDS chisel along the whole lot to give an outward sloping surface.

Check the roof and gutters while it's raining. Also check your neighours' garden. Our scumbag ex-neighbours decked their entire garden, with the planks all guiding and tipping the water down the back of our boundary fence. So we got all their rainwater.