Gas boiler flue - ground clearance

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Any help much appreciated.

Our gas boiler is located in the cellar of the house, the only problem with this being that externally the flue is only about 2 inches off the ground level. The boiler is probably about 15 years old (best guess!) and I presume this was okay at the time but obviously isn't now.

We'd like to get the boiler on a service plan but wondered if the current requirement for ground clearance for flues applies retrospectively, i.e. could a Gas Safe fitter force remedial work, or even condemn it?

The intention is to replace the boiler with a new one in the bathroom this time next year, but thought it sensible to get a service plan in place for the next 12 months.

Thanks in advance.
 
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so it's 15 years old, im guessing its a balanced flue terminal? Is is a big square metal box? or is it fan flued/open flued?

If its balanced flue, you need a minimum ground clearance of 300mm, but as its been in and working for 15 years already and your replacing it next year.. If the appliance is working correctly and safely then i would regard it as NCS (not to current standards) UNless of course the appliance isn't working correctly or if its discharging within a void / semi enclosed area or causing a nuisance
 
I doubt that BG would take it on when it is old AND has a deficient flue location.

I expect most independents would service or repair it but point out to you that its not to current standards. There is a strong argument that its really correctly classed as "At Risk" and should be turned off!

There is another solution and that would be to lower the ground around the flue !

The purpose is so that leaves and snow dont restrict the air intake or exhaust.

Tony
 
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Again, thanks.

Unfortunately lowering the ground around isn't practical as this would take out a good chunk of the perimeter path around the house. We originally looked at keeping the boiler in the same place but have no route out for condensate. We have a VERY convaluted route to the bathrrom and kitchen so siting a new boiler in the bathroom would get over this and signficantly shorten the time to get hot water.

Given your advice I think I might get an independent to give it a service now and get a new unit fitted in a year.

The old unit seems to have been plodding on for years (it's an old Worcester), and I'd like to keep the same. Any recommendations on a good Worcester Bosch or similar for a two bed terrace with one bathroom?
 
Boilers in bathrooms are not recommended and need to be boxed in and closed with a lock or something that needs a tool to open.

Candensate pumps are available to pump up to 3.5 m vertically and about 10 m horizontally.

just because your boiler has gone on for a long time does not mean that current Worcesters are the best choice. Most installers think a stainless heat exchanger will be more long lived.

Tony
 
Tony

Thanks. Can you point me in the direction of the guidance on siting (or not) boilers in bathrooms and requirements for boxing in? didn't realise that this was an issue? Is it to do with the electrics in the boiler or something else?

To try and explain the siting, we have installed a stud partition in the corner of a square room, which creates a cupboard (currently open with shelving). The shower unit is on the other side of the stud wall. I have checked that there is sufficient room around (basing it on info from Worcester Bosch). I'm not sure what 'zone' this would be classed in and whether I could site a new combi here?
 
Another point if I may. I've noticed that regular systems seem to be preferred for low water pressure areas. Our water pressure isn't great but is there a classification of 'low' water pressure. Is this based on flow rate or pressure? Any way of testing?
 
The best boiler for a bathroom installation is still, as far as I know, the ATAG E series.

This has an IP44 rating, the highest in the industry I believe.

If you can get it into Zone 3, you will not have to box it in as far as I can remember :confused:
 
Leafy Norwich and Cheshire probably have massive bathrooms with wicker chairs and large potted plants.

Unfortunately bathrooms in London usually dont extend beyond zone 1.

Some WCs have to have outward opening doors because there is not enough space to open a door inwards! I even went to one yesterday with a "split in the centre" door like those on the Boeings.

Tony
 
Pah! Not all of Cheshire is all twin-set-and-pearls and leafy bathrooms. Just a little two bed terrace!

Out of interest, how complicated (for the fitter not me)/costly/intrusive is a loft install on a new gas boiler? Mulling it over today, this would provide a significantly easier route for a new gas feed, and as we've got the gable end of the terrace an easier flue route.

After comments earlier today, UU are coming round to check the water pressure this week. The phoneline was very helpful but I've been in this game too long to hold much hope for anything magical being done!
 
Loft installation is not anymore difficult than anywhere else as such , but you will need a permenant loft ladder and lighting and it boarded out.
Bu tif you have poor pressure this will a no no as by yhe time its got up to loft through the unit and out of taps you could probably pea faster
 
why not just keep it where it is with a condensate pump? all the pipeworks already there :D
 
Most boilers are IPX5 nowadays.

IP44 is not particularly good, the first number is dust resistance which is irrelevent in a bathroom location.
 

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