gate valves
- Thread starter djw76
- Start date
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To go through a pump volute?
Change the valves and live long and prosper 
On second thoughts... Ignore all the above, I think you need a new boiler
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Yes, but what you don't know is if the thread is actually correctly firmly locating in the female part, it could be stripped.
But I still don't think you have any water on the pipework side of the valve.
But you don't want to unscrew the nut to check as we have asked you to do.
Tony
it screws all the way in and out (off completely), thread is fine.
what i don't get is how does it open/close the gate because surely all you doing to moving the stem in and out of the gate without it actually turning in the valve?? i assumed the gate would be fixed to the end of the stem, therefore turning when the stem turned?
i definitely have water the pipework side because i drained it all out!
header not empty because i blocked off the feeder outlet. i calculated what i thought would be in the pipework from header outlet to bottom pump valve which was approx. 1.2lt and that's about what i drained out. once it stopped i took the guts out of the valve (leaving valve in place).
i just can't get my head round these gate valves, they don't appear broken to me, yet they're definitely not opening up when in place?
Oh dear!
Don't you realise that by blocking the outlet you have deprived yourself of the most important test of whether the outlet pipe is not blocked.
Always turn off water to ball valve or tie it up.
Then see if water drains promptly out of the header tank. It should flow out at about 10 li/min!
Tony
Don't you realise that by blocking the outlet you have deprived yourself of the most important test of whether the outlet pipe is not blocked.
Always turn off water to ball valve or tie it up.
Then see if water drains promptly out of the header tank. It should flow out at about 10 li/min!
Tony
the reason i didn't want to do that was because i couldn't deal with that amount of water!
i didn't want to drain the entire heating system and no drain point between header and pump which is why i took the drip/drip approach from loosening off valve gland. i could only catch drips into a small container due to lack of room. it's the only way i could see to do it. would they have been an alternative way?
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The valve stem should not rise or fall when turning. That means that the "gate" part of the valve moves up and down along the stem when turning. Put it back together and observe the action. If the stem moves up and down, then the valve is broken.
We told you to loosen the 22 mm nut on the gate valve and not the valve gland nut!
When a gate valve is working correctly the shaft will only rotate about 3-4 turns.
If you have removed the pump head, as it seems, then you can control the flow of water using the gate valve.
A properly adjusted header tank will only be holding about 4-5 litres of water.
That can be soaked up by a large towel or two.
But a paint roller tray is often a very useful tool for work on rad valves and pumps!
Tony
Or use an AquaVac or a couple of heavy duty rubble sacks, one inside the other, with a bucket nearby!
think i understand the gate now, so it's moves up and down the shaft. i was thinking it turned through 90 degrees thereby allowing water to flow either side of it!
so if it moves up and down that must mean the square drive but turns a few times round to fully open/close the gate?
mine was only turning 90 degrees (very small movement) hence why i thought the gate turned the same. i didn't want to force it round for fear of breaking it.
should i force it to get it turning to open it up?
so if it moves up and down that must mean the square drive but turns a few times round to fully open/close the gate?
mine was only turning 90 degrees (very small movement) hence why i thought the gate turned the same. i didn't want to force it round for fear of breaking it.
should i force it to get it turning to open it up?
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