getting of the ground

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Hello there Folks,

Can I ask forum members to post replies to the following please.
If and when you have a car on your driveway outside the house,
which tools to use use to lift it and work underneath?

I like to hear opinion regarding any stigma on using any particular tools,
refusal to use certain tools due to a bad experience perhaps
and any tools that you always use and recommend to others.


I looking at the subject of vehicle lifting tools in general so
any comment on the subject at all is welcome.
By the way, I don't work for a tool manufacturer,
this is just for my own interest

many thanks in advance for any replies
 
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depends on the type of vehicle and the surface you are working on.

Providing the jacking points are sound and I'm only working on one corner then I use the manufacturer's jack to get it onto an axle stand under the chassis rail or subframe.

If more than one wheel lifting along the vehicle then use the manufacturer's jack front and rear to put it onto axle stands under chassis, subframe or axle tube.

If lifting across the axle then it's the good old trolley jack under the subframe or the provided central jacking point. (apparently if you jack an early f*** orion from the lump under the rear subframe it knackers some part of the fuel pump but this could be an urban myth - don't balme me though if it does break...)

If you have to jack from soft ground then put a paving slab or scaffold board down first to spread the load.

When jacking from tarmac watch out for hot days when it will sink into the surface and make a mess of the drive - best put slab or board down first.

Trolley jacks on block paving are fun as the trolley wheels follow the groove between blocks so watch out if you're jacking close to a wall or another vehicle in case it slips sideways.

I always chock the front and rear of all wheels remaining on the ground.

And finally...you can't tell when the hydraulics will give out on your trolley jack. have one person jack and another fit the axle stands. It is really embarrasing to watch the axle stand punch through the panel work in the wrong place as the jack begin to collapse. That "tip for life" cost me a new floorpan on a Mini when all I wanted to do was swap out the steering rack. :oops:

The above is only relevant to vehicles up to large saloon size and lifting/support gear with a 1.5ton SWL.
 
if you have a trolley jack why would you bother using a standard light weight, crap,made for emergency jack? I find these dangerous and for emergency use only. Not only are they slow and can only really lift a car to take a wheel off. You cant get enougth height to work underneath car either.
 
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mattysupra said:
if you have a trolley jack why would you bother using a standard light weight, rubbish,made for emergency jack? I find these dangerous and for emergency use only. Not only are they slow and can only really lift a car to take a wheel off. You cant get enougth height to work underneath car either.

I guess that I am fortunate that both of my Toyotas have a jack of very good quality. I have upgraded the one in my Triumph - same style but bigger SWL. I can't comment on other manufacturers unfortunately but generally you get what you pay for.

speedy jacking isn't good practice. Slow and steady is the careful way - just in case that chassis rail has a little more rust inside it than you think
I agree that standard jacks don't go much higher than emergency use and yes I do then swap to a trolley jack with a longer lift.
 
Hi! Any thoughts on metal car ramps? At least you can leave the wheels on and under pressure- which could figure in an unlikely collapse. Just keep checking before use as with any tool I guess. I'm open to criticism!
 
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