Getting Power to the loft

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Hi,
I'm about to have a new loft hatch cut and fitted.
I'm wanting to eventually put some power up there. I can run a light fitting and switch from an existing upstairs light fitting, which once up in the loft should be easy enough to locate.
I'm just wondering how I can get some electric sockets up there.
Inside the cupboard where the central heating and water tanks are, there is a FCU which used to be connected to an immersion heater many years ago (before I bought the house). When my hot water/heating valve on the central heating system broke a few years ago, a gas installer fitted me a new Honeywell SmartFit system (I think that's what it is) and to power it, he used the old immersion heater FCU. At the back of the FCU, there is a set of wires going in, which are connected to another set of wires that power a double socket in the bedroom. Then in the FCU, there is the wire that connects to the SmartFit unit. The SmartFit unit is affected by the FCU switch but the double socket in the bedroo just seems to spur from that FCU (if that makes any sense).
My question is; can I remove the double socket wires from the FCU, connect a junction box to the FCU and then connect the double socket to the junction box and then connect another socket from the loft to the juntion box?
Or will I have to do it another way? I've attached a basic diagram showing the connections.

Thanks

Carl


powerdiagram.jpg
 
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I'd get an electrician to visit and quote.

I'm not sure I understand what you have, and it sounds all a bit tired and the last thing you need is a bodge on top of an existing bodge.
Maybe I had too much sun over the weekend, but your existing setup doesn't sound as if it's compliant so I can't offer further help,
 
carl the information is easy enough to understand but we need to know a bit more please

the fuse or Mcb for this circuit what size is it ?
the cable what diameter is it ?
approx how far from your fuseboard to the airing cupboard?
 
going on the existing information, I'm guessing a 2.5mm radial on a 16A breaker ( since it was an immersion heater feed.. )

if it's a dedicated radial then he can do as he said...

Assuming it IS a dedicated radial, I would personally connect the new sockets off the back of the old to keep the radial in a logical straight line and not branching off it..
 
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I'm not sure what size the fuse is that is in the consumer unit in the kitchen. I will look tonight. I think there may be 4 fuses in there in total and I'm not sure which fuse applies to what.
The cable connected to the FCU is 2.5mm and I would say the FCU is about 4 metres from the consumer unit. The consumer unit is just to the left of the staircase, just under the ceiling and the FCU would be in the cupboard that is directly above the staircase so I would say about 4 metres distance.
 
I've checked the fuseboard and there are 4 fuses in there; 5A, 30A, 15A, 30A. Does that help?
 
not exactly..

pull the fuses one at a time and see what goes off ( might be a good time to number the fuses and make up a list of what's on each for future reference? )

if the boiler and socket goes off when you pull the 15A fuse, and nothing else does then it's a dedicated radial..

my guess is that...

5A = lights ( duh! )
30A = sockets
15A = immersion
30A = cooker..?
 
30A = cooker..?

I do believe that when I had my shower fitted, the gas installer / plumber put the shower onto this fuse. I think the wire goes from the fuse, into a FCU and then through the walls into the shower. I think you are right about the first 2 fuses though. I'll have a look when I get home.
 

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