Glazing beads problem

[Gilesda]

Find a local plastic doctor/double glazing service engineer local to you, explain the situation and ask if he can pop over to fit them, if I was local to you I'd do it for free

Yes that's what I'm thinking of doing. I'll be really annoyed if he gets them in easily.

 

[foxhole]

Have you got the correct tool for the job?
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/han...-129f235df603&istItemId=aqrxmpxlp&istBid=tztx

 

[Gilesda]

Have you got the correct tool for the job?
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/han...-129f235df603&istItemId=aqrxmpxlp&istBid=tztx

I'm actually using a Thor plastic mallet which looks pretty similar to that picture. I'm a tin basher one thing I'm not short of is hammers and mallets. What I am short of is the ability to do this.

 

[chappers]

Yes that's what I'm thinking of doing. I'll be really annoyed if he gets them in easily.

I had a similar problem a while back, having fitted loads in the past. Eventually gave in and called my mate who does this day in day out, whilst it wasn't easy for him he could work out the problem and knew how to fix it.

 

[Doggit]

Have you tried fitting the beads without the glass to make sure they do actually fit the frame. It's als possible that the piece of glass is too big, and there's not enough gap left for the beads to go in. Try adding a few more spacers on one side, and then see if the beading goes in.

 

[Gilesda]

Have you tried fitting the beads without the glass to make sure they do actually fit the frame. It's als possible that the piece of glass is too big, and there's not enough gap left for the beads to go in. Try adding a few more spacers on one side, and then see if the beading goes in.

Yes the beads fit without the glass and I managed to start the beads using a short piece of wood that was 28mm thick to simulate the glass.
Well I had another bash tonight and found that I could start one of the long beads by pressing it in, twisting it anti clockwise to force it down towards the slot and then hitting it in with a mallet. I then had a go at the bottom bead and though I couldn't twist it I still managed to get it in
The top bead wouldn't go in I couldn't start it. The bottom bead was going into the frame that sits on concrete, the top is packed out and while there is no movement there is a springiness that isn't in the bottom so I'm not getting a solid hit. Also using the packers that came with the frame there is a smaller gap at the top. I'm not sure if that could be a cause of the problem though.
I couldn't get the left side long bead to start, it was awkward being on the left and I'm working close to a wall. I was starting to lose my rag again with it so packed up and left it.
It seems to come down to having the strength to force the bead into the frame to keep the tongue low and at the same time hit the bead in towards the glass to force the front over the lip. I'll try again tommorrow I finish work early on a Friday so I'll have a bit of daylight and a bit more time.
Thanks again everybody for all the advice, much appreciated.

 

[Doggit]

It sounds as though there is a either a completely simple solution, or the glass is actually too large, and that would seem to be bourn out by the fact that the bottom beads gone in, but the top one then won't.

 

[Gilesda]

It sounds as though there is a either a completely simple solution, or the glass is actually too large, and that would seem to be bourn out by the fact that the bottom beads gone in, but the top one then won't.

I've just had another look at the gaps and the gap on the right side at the top edge, where I was trying to start the bead, is about 2mm while the gap at the left side of the top is nearer 6mm. The gaps down the sides are even at about 6mm.
I'm not sure how that is happening at the top and the packers supplied with the glass have 4mm stamped on them. I'm wondering if the glass isn't sitting on the packer at the bottom on the right side causing the small gap at the top. There was a number of packers with the glass which is about 300mm by 2100mm. I've got two on the bottom where else should I have them?

 

[Gazman16]

Are the frames white or colored foil? If they are foiled that can add a mm or so making them tighter than usual.

On one rare occasion years ago I had a conservatory that we just couldn't get the beads in. We had both the system manufacturer and the fabricator come out and in the end we had to cut some of the gasket off the beads.
I would speak to your supplier before doing anything that drastic though.

 

[Doggit]

You may need to get a pack of assorted spacers, and use those that give you an even gap all round. If the width is 300, then you'll have 2 spacers on the bottom, and then put them on the sides about 300mm up from the bottom, then fit the top ones, and then fit them on the sides near the top.

You've given the gaps at the top as being 2mm, and 6mm, but you haven't said what the gaps at the bottom are. And if you have such a difference, it suggest the glass is leaning over, or the frame isn't straight.

 

[Gilesda]

You may need to get a pack of assorted spacers, and use those that give you an even gap all round. If the width is 300, then you'll have 2 spacers on the bottom, and then put them on the sides about 300mm up from the bottom, then fit the top ones, and then fit them on the sides near the top.

You've given the gaps at the top as being 2mm, and 6mm, but you haven't said what the gaps at the bottom are. And if you have such a difference, it suggest the glass is leaning over, or the frame isn't straight.

After reading your post I decided to find out why the gaps were out at the top and check everything for square. I lifted the glass out leaving the bottom bead in place and the bottom packers were fine. Measuring the glass diagonally it was spot on the frame was 2mm out over 2metres. If I welded up a steel frame I'd be happy with that for being square.

Anyway I've managed to get all the beads in finally. It was when I lifted the glass out I wondered if I could slide it in with the top bead in place, the one I couldn't get in. A bit washing up liquid on the glass and it went up into the bead ok. The bottom bead went in again ok as well.
The sides started fairly easily and the glass being compressed by the end beads I think helped a lot and they flew in. That's when I discovered the importance of starting at the top and then starting the bead again at the bottom. I started at the top and when I got to the bottom it was over 3mm too long. So I had to pull most of it back out and start the other end so it bowed in the middle. A few taps and it went in.

I'm not overly happy.with the job there is a few inches of half millimetre gaps where the bead is lifting away from the frame about a third of the way down both long edges. One of the beads cracked at the top though it isn't too noticeable with the short beads pressing it hard into the frame.
Does anybody know if superglue sticks upvc? The gaps close easily with hand pressure but reappear when I let go. I thought about putting a bit glue in then taping the gaps closed till it set.
The annoying thing is with what I now know about doing this i reckon if I was starting again now I'd manage it easily. I think the beads are too long though and that's why I have the gaps though the wife says you can barely see them.
Anyway thanks again every body you're a great bunch helping the gormless like me.

 

[Doggit]

Superglue works fine on Upvc, and you can get superglue activator that will set the superglue in about 10 seconds.