Glow-worm Flexicom 30cx water main isolation

[SimonSnake]

Hi

I have the above boiler in a bungalow and I need to re-route the hot water supply pipe from its current route through the loft to under the floorboards as currently it takes about ten minutes (no exaggeration) for the hot water to get to the shower. I therefore deduced that I needed to isolate the cold water supply (or is the technical term feed) pipe.

The cold water feed into the boiler has a brass isolation valve (like a tap) below it at floor level, but it is stuck open. At the point where the pipework meets the boiler there is (according to page 53 of the installation and servicing manual) an isolation valve, but after I have turned it 90 degrees it hasn't stopped water flowing out of the hot taps in the bungalow. How do I isolate it? I could turn off the main stop cock entering the bungalow, but it's 3 feet below the floorboards in the hall and I'd rather isolate just the boiler for now so that we can still flush the toilet, etc.

Have I done something wrong?

Any suggestions, thanks.

Simon

 

[ianmcd]

Hi Simon

when looking at your boiler from the front, the cold water inlet is third in from the right and will be 15mm, if in doubt run the HW and the cold water inlet should be the coldest pipe of them all, follow the pipe up to the boiler and there should be a small screwdiver type slot on the valve just before the filling loop assembly, open up a hot tap and you will hear the water running , turn this screw until you hear the water stop and that is the cold supply isolated

Regards

Ian

 

[SimonSnake]

Hi Ian

Thanks, and I had turned that isolator, but for some reason water was still coming out of the hot taps, and I couldn't work out why.

Then the penny dropped (it was more like a lead weight).

My wife, being disabled and not very strong couldn't turn the mixer taps in the bathroom, and then couldn't get the mix right for a shower, so I created her a 'tap' between the mixer and the shower head so she could leave the taps on at the right setting, then just turn off the water via the new 'tap'. Therefore, only one tap and the temperature set right.

I merely had to turn off this mixer tap (and thus isolate the individual supplies) and the hot water has now turned to a mere trickle.

The mixer tap was in effect bridging the hot and cold circuits. Proves I should add a couple of double check valves in the pipe work so as to prevent backfill.

Thanks guys.