Gluing kitchen cabinets

[JohnD]

My existing carcases are rigid-built Mobalpa with some kind of injected plastic into the joints, it looks like it goes into a cut into the thickness of the board.

I need some wall cabinets, and may make my own with dowelled joints in laminated board, or buy flatpacks with cam or screw assembly. These are not very strong or rigid, but I am counting the pennies.

I was thinking of improving them with a bead of no-more-nails or similar in all the joints to make them more rigid.

Is there anything wrong with this idea?

Any other suggestions?

 

[xerxes]

Surely No-more Nails would give you far too thick a glue line, wouldn't it?

Why not think in terms of adding rigidity by designing the back of the cabinet to stiffen the carcase?

If you have a biscuit jointer, using biscuits would be much better than using dowels.

 

[JohnD]

Good idea about the glue line. maybe a smear of PVA or something instead?

I haven't got a biscuit jointer. not fond of woodwork.

 

[awbcm]

Ridged construction relies on good fitting joints above any thing else end of story.

If you are very fond of wood work and can’t trust yourself to produce good fitting joints then my recommendation is to buy flat pack.

 

[JohnD]

and if I want to stiffen the flatpacks?

 

[awbcm]

With out seeing the product you are going to purchase I can’t and neither can any one else give you a detailed reply.

But you can consider the following;-

If the back fits in the grove like throwing a bottle up an entry, then I would apply water based liquid nails in the grove before fitting the back panel. Removing any excess adhesive before it sets; the liquid nails will act as a filler as well as an adhesive. Use a solvent-free adhesive as it is softer and will fill all the gaps better than solvent based one. Let the adhesive set over night.

That’s the belt fitted now for the braces.

If there is room on the back of the cabinet you could fit this type of thing in each corner.

 

[Kes]

I have glued all joints on most flat pack stuff I've fitted, using epoxy wood glue, on the grounds that it makes a more solid carcass and you can't do much with it after it's fitted. One problem is that you must stand the carcasses square whilst the glue is setting. I used a new pressed paving slab as a base, perhaps not absolute but better than anything else lying around.

Oh yes, just wipe the visible glue line with a damp J-cloth, it's no great hassle.

 

[JohnD]

Epoxy wood glue? You mean epoxy resin, like Araldite? I haven't seen it.

wouldn't PVA or White EvoStik Wood Glue in the green or blue bottle do?

 

[Kes]

Sorry, word confusion. I meant the Evostick green/blue, which is touted as some type of resin adhesive. Immensely strong, whatever it is. I never think that PVA has the same strength, but I could be wrong.