Gonna have a go at bulding wardrobes

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by Fordy81, 3 Mar 2015.

  1. Fordy81

    Fordy81

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    After being quoted up to £4,000 for wardrobes with sliding doors, I'm gonna go down the DIY route.

    I've sourced the doors, 4 for £320, and will need to build a stud case if you like that the doors will partially sit behind. I'm happy with this part, plasterboarding it and getting someone in to skim it over.

    However, the internal bits are what are causing me problems. I know you can buy kits but I'd rather something purpose built, and to be honest I enjoy wood work. I'm not great at it, but I enjoy it. And as long as it stands up, that'll do me. lol

    What wood should I be using though? Am I best of just using 'furniture boards'. I know b&q do walnut ones that would match the doors. Or should I use something it else and just paint/stain it?

    Does anyone else have any other suggestions? For example how to connect them all together. lol Fixings etc?

    Would really appreciate any advice as I've not done anything like this before.

    Thanks :)
     
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  3. ladylola

    ladylola

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    I wouldn't personally spend too much on the insides of a wardrobe. My own was in the house when we brought it and is plywood . I've added a shoe rack and shelving made of mdf and painted the lot magnolia . I've used white melamine faced chipboard and unpainted pine for the insides of wardrobes too. I can't see the point of expensive , attractive timbers for the insides that really no one will actually see , the wardrobes are normally full of clothes and their doors are shut.
    As to jointing and what have you , trenching wide boards or panels together always looks so much better , tidier and stronger. A lot depends on how you are arranging the internal space .
     
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  4. foxhole

    foxhole

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    I used 18mm mdf in my sliding wardrobe, painted and varnished [really quick and cheap method is to use danish oil] no frame is need , used mdf to top as it paints as well as plasterboard and hides the ugly track.
     
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  5. big-all

    big-all

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    dont forget the doors need to be about 100-200mm smaller than the gap to allow for the running mechanism and for adjustment at the floor and ceiling to allow for deviations
     
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  7. Fordy81

    Fordy81

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    Thanks for the replies everyone.

    I think I'm gonna have to get some plastering done. I have a box above the stairs, so the track will sit forward of the adjoining wall, so I want to bring it out an inch or two so the doors slide behind the new wall by a cm or so.

    I've seen furniture boards in white in B&Q etc which aren't too expensive. However I'm still unsure about how to join them. Obviously I want strong joins but preferably without having screws showing all over the place.

    For example, the plan is to have 12 shoe 'pigeon holes'. Two rows of six. Is there a simple way to do this?
     
  8. big-all

    big-all

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    a router
    a table saw
    a pull saw
    a track saw
    dead easy
    right tools for the right job
    which off the above tools do you have
    and what woodwork and general skills do you have :D :D
     
  9. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Hey B-A - you missed a 6ft level and a wifey to bring periodic hot beverages...... :LOL:
     
  10. big-all

    big-all

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    some basteward stood on my 6ft level a few weeks ago and creased it :eek:
    and said its ok its within 5mm :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

    well thats ok then you buy me a new one and you can keep this one :rolleyes:

    it didnt look like it would fit easily where i wanted to shove it to give him a bit off lumber support :D
     
  11. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

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