Gravel driveway - membrane
- Thread starter kazzab
- Start date
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Geo-textile membrane goes under sub base if required.
Never, ever, between MOT sub base and shingle wearing course.
Regards oldun
Never, ever, between MOT sub base and shingle wearing course.
Regards oldun
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I can not see the point in weed barrier beneath gravel as weeds will still drop into the gravel and germinate.
Look at any 3 year old (unmaintained) gravel drive and there will be weed at all abutments where seeds have hit a stopper, dropped and germinated.
Gravel is like the garden of eden to weeds and plants.
There is a barn con' up by us and there are more rape seed plants growing along the windward side wall of the drive than there are in the field nearby!
Look at any 3 year old (unmaintained) gravel drive and there will be weed at all abutments where seeds have hit a stopper, dropped and germinated.
Gravel is like the garden of eden to weeds and plants.
There is a barn con' up by us and there are more rape seed plants growing along the windward side wall of the drive than there are in the field nearby!
Just read this on another site
"Geo-Textile Fabric - A fabric that is rolled out between the sub-grade and the gravel layer. This fabric helps stabilize the gravel making it more stable and suited for high traffic or heavy vehicles. "
Very confusing
"Geo-Textile Fabric - A fabric that is rolled out between the sub-grade and the gravel layer. This fabric helps stabilize the gravel making it more stable and suited for high traffic or heavy vehicles. "
Very confusing
Geo-tex is a non-tear tough fabric that is laid beneath the hard core layer and is designed for areas where soft pockets of sub soil can occur like in clay. It helps prevent heavy localised loads being pushed downwards.
Weed barrier is a permeable black membrane that is meant to prevent weeds growing through stuff like bark chippings in a well maintained flower border.
Weed barrier is a permeable black membrane that is meant to prevent weeds growing through stuff like bark chippings in a well maintained flower border.
Will try and explain to you.
There are in the region of 7 Geo-Synthetic products on the market.
Of these you are only interested in Geo-textile, of which there are four number.
Woven, non woven, knitted and the rubbish that the sheds sell for weed suppression.
Of these four, the one that you may require is woven textile, how ever you only need a textile under your sub base if you are laying a heavy duty carriage way, or if after excavation, you find the sub ground has a clay content, is dampish and a little on the soft side. Then lay a woven textile. Will take us to long to describe the principles of how a textile works, but basically they keep sub bases from mixing into sub grades and vice versa, minimise and help to prevent soil-pumping, and act as reinforcement to sub grade and sub base.
Wearing course, call it what you like. Stone, gravel, shingle or aggregate. Clean graded with no fines, round or angular or self binding with the addition of fines Your choice.
Textile is a separating layer to separate two materials, and if you lay a clean graded aggregate on to textile on top of sub base every time you drive over wearing course you are slightly moving aggregate back and forth and in a very short time will disintegrate the textile below the wheel tracks. Should you have a wheel spin, then you will go through the aggregate and rip the textile up as easily as tearing toilet paper, and leave ragged edges of textile above the aggregate.
Suggest. Aggregate of your choice. 30 to 35mm thick. Graded 20mm down to 10mm. Spread half of thickness and run two passes of plate over to slightly bed aggregate into sub base, spread remainder and rake to levels required.
An edging is very beneficial to retain aggregate.
Regards oldun
Can you help - we have a shingle (20mm) driveway 4m x22m aprox
It has seen better days to say the least there is moss all over it and the shingle in places in gone leaving only mud
I am going to get a digger in to scrape back the drive lay a membrane and then re shingle
Can someone confirm aprox how far I need to go down 1-2" enough and if a membrane in neccercary. The membrane I have been offered is a geotex one ? £70.00 for 100m2
I want to do a proper job and make it last as its a hit traffic drive to our house ( also small business )
Any help appreciated for is pen pusher who knows nothing
Arron
It has seen better days to say the least there is moss all over it and the shingle in places in gone leaving only mud
I am going to get a digger in to scrape back the drive lay a membrane and then re shingle
Can someone confirm aprox how far I need to go down 1-2" enough and if a membrane in neccercary. The membrane I have been offered is a geotex one ? £70.00 for 100m2
I want to do a proper job and make it last as its a hit traffic drive to our house ( also small business )
Any help appreciated for is pen pusher who knows nothing
Arron
Have a look here
//www.diynot.com/forums/building/calculate-type1-and-20mm-shingle.327755/#2431300
Found the advice form theoldun very helpful
We ended up removing A LOT more of the drive than we anticipated, I. Order to allow for the sub base, etc
//www.diynot.com/forums/building/calculate-type1-and-20mm-shingle.327755/#2431300
Found the advice form theoldun very helpful
We ended up removing A LOT more of the drive than we anticipated, I. Order to allow for the sub base, etc
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