Grill element fun and games....

[johnc86]

I replaced a grill element in a duel electric combined oven and grill/oven unit. It had been working fine until about a month ago. I replaced the main oven element not long ago and have had no issues. I used the code from the original manual to order the exact element required.

I put it the new element in and tested it by switching it on and nothing seemed to happen. After lot of fiddling around and re checking I cut my losses and put the unit back in position assuming there must be a fault other than the element. Weirdly when it was resembled and back in position it did in fact come on and start heating up for about a minute until tripping the breaker on the consumer unit. Every time I tried the grill after that it tripped. The oven part however remains working fine.

I took it back out again for another check of the wiring which all seemed fine. At this point I noticed that there are 2 plastic switches which clip onto the back of the timer unit. They have a spring loaded push button on the backs of them which must engage as the timer kicks in. Neither where clipped on as they should be. The oven owner (girlfriends mum) isn't sure if they where disconnected at some point deliberately because the timer broke. Either way the oven works without these being connected but I cant now get the grill to come on at all (even just to trip the breaker).

1 thing to point out is that the new element was missing one of its pins where the cables terminate using a crimped connection which just pushes on. The old element had 4. They are spot welded on. As this was missing I used pliers to very tightly secure the crimped connector in place. If this could be the problem I could try and get one of the posts from the old element and solder it to the new one. Otherwise id have to try and use some kind of heat proof connector block. Iv had the element for too long to return it.

Any ideas would be greatly received.

Thanks.

 

[flameport]

As this was missing I used pliers to very tightly secure the crimped connector in place. If this could be the problem I could try and get one of the posts from the old element and solder it to the new one. Otherwise id have to try and use some kind of heat proof connector block. Iv had the element for too long to return it.

Pliers cannot be successfully used to crimp anything.
You can't solder it either, as the solder will melt the first time the element is used.
It might be possible to use a ceramic terminal block, however it is also possible that the 'new' element is broken and will never work.

The real answer is to buy a new element. I suggest you avoid those sold as the genuine manufacturer originals as they are usually grossly overpriced.

 

[johnc86]

Thanks for the reply. I already suspected that the heat of the element would be enough to melt the solder so thanks for confirming. A ceramic connector block could be a way to go. The fact that the grill did come on at one point makes me suspect that it is a working element so Id like to at least try a better method of connection the wire without giving up on it all together.

The way I used the pliers was intended as a quick fix for Christmas until I could get something better. Not ideal I know but the oven is wired into a fused switch and its ALWAYS turned off when not in use (a habit the home owners are into already with all the appliances for whatever reason).

However the manufactures method of termination being only a push fit anyway I thought it would be ok for a couple of days at least....
It seemed quite secure. However the surface that it was in contact with was not shiny etc, I tried to remedy this by using a but of glass paper to get a better contact. These are the 4 posts that come off back of the element, the crimp connector terminals are spot welded onto these.

I'm thinking that this probably is what was causing the tripping though. Not really sure what to do now other than try and get some sort of ceramic connector and try and get a firm connection and see if that sorts it.

You try to do someone a favor.........

 

[Taylortwocities]

Woah,
What is it that is "tripping"?

If it is an RCD then it is because of an earth fault somewhere.
If it is an MCB then it will be the result of an overload. Note that a bad connection will NOT result in an overload, in fact it will result in less current being passed.

NOT know the difference between an RCD and an MCB?

Untitled

• Taylortwocities
• 27 Mar 2010
• 43

 

[johnc86]

It was the rcd which was tripping not the mcb. An rcd trips when it detects an imbalance between phase and neutral. An mcb trips when there is overload current to protect the circuit which is not the case here. I should have been more specific, was trying to keep it simple as this is a DIY forum.

 

[SimonH2]

It was the rcd which was tripping not the mcb.

Which suggests an earth fault in the element. If it's a metal cased element then it's quite possible it's slightly damp inside which will cause a small leakage from the element wire inside to the case - tripping the RCD.
Getting it hot "might" dry it out, or it might not, or it "might" make it explode. I've seen a cooker ring that's failed - blew a hole in the bottom of a friend's favourite milk pan.