Grinding down pattresses

[Ben565]

Hi,

I had my house rewired about a year ago and only just got round to having the chases plastered in. Plasterer has done a satisfactory job of plastering everything in flush, but some of the pattresses are sticking out too far (beyond the level of the original plaster). We're only talking a few mm but results in around a 1-2mm gap around the socket even when screwed in tight.

Rather than making a mess and pulling out the pattresses etc refitting then replastering again for the sake of a few mm. I wondered if it would be a worthwhile idea to use a small angle grinder or more likely dremel to grind down the edges of the pattress so they are flush.

 

[AndyPRK]

They may only need to be done by the lugs depending what the rear of the accessory is like

 

[Ben565]

I'm not sure I follow?

 

[mfarrow]

You'll have to be steady with the grinder and make sure all wires are out the way, the accessory not present, and the metallic dust cleared away afterwards.

I would use my Makita filing sander; best toy ever.

 

[Ben565]

Yeah an angle grinder would be a bit bulky, dremel or something might be better.

 

[Chri5]

The mechanical shock to the wall via the box vibrating while being ground back could well damage the plaster anyway.

Buy a multi tool, cut round the box in the plaster being mindful of cables and take the box out.

You might get away with dropping back box size, or you might then want to use the multi tool to cut back the rear of the wall a few mm and reset the box.

When you reset the box butter the inside edges of the wall with some bonding, as the box is set the bonding will push out and fill the gap between wall and box caused by the multi tool cut.

 

[Ben565]

The boxes are screwed to the wall pretty firm, although as you say there will be some vibration. I should point out they are chased into a more traditional type plaster rather than modern plasterboard, it might be difficult to cut a neat hole around the box like you could do with plasterboard.

I'll give it a try though and see how far I get. It would be better to take it out and refit it a little better.

I think the boxes are already 25mm, but I'll have to double check.

 

[AndyPRK]

I'm not sure I follow?

I had an issue where the backbox was flush to the wall, but when the accessory was fitted it sat proud.

On the rear of the accessory was raised plastic around the screw holes which was causing the the problem.

I grounded off the back box only around the screw holes where it was clashing.

You might just be able to see what I mean in this pic

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Legrand-S...al_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item3a8aa3bf5c

 

[Ben565]

Thanks Andy, I think I see what your getting at now. I'm not sure the lugs are actually coming into contact with the back box (screw holes on the back box are quite recesssed. but I''ll check when I'm at home.

 

[AndyPRK]

No it was the metal box near the lugs.

 

[Iggifer]

Unless I'm mistaken, Andy means remove the little bit of extra plastic between the edge of the switch and the screw hole, this will allow the witch to sit closer to the wall, with the proud of the edge sitting in your new recess in the switch

If that's not what he means, it's worth a go! Switches are cheap, plasterers are not

 

[stillp]

Unless I'm mistaken, Andy means remove the little bit of extra plastic between the edge of the switch and the screw hole, this will allow the witch to sit closer to the wall, with the proud of the edge sitting in your new recess in the switch

I thought he meant to remove the part of the metal back box that the bit of plastic you refer to is sitting on.
Either would work though.

 

[Ben565]

Got it, will give it a try grinding down the plastic between the edge of the switch and the screw hole. That looks an easier way of doing it.