Grout disaster - panel questions

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Hi. I hope someone can advise.

A local fitter installed and tiled our shower cubicle two years ago, since then we've had two leaks through the grout and into our kitchen below. This time he pinged off a couple of the tiles to show me the soggy plaster behind.

An important thing to know here is that I take ridiculously long showers, to ease my joints. Twenty minutes, sometimes. Usually 10 minutes.

First, I wonder if this is expected, given my daft shower use. I've read conflicting information. Some friends say, "It's a sign the grout's wrong." Other posts here on DIYnot say this is expected of shower grouting if it's soaked stupidly.

He now wants to fit 300mm tongue-and-groove style upvc or laminate panelling, with silicon seals. Fine. But he wants to fit it over the existing tiles. As a result he says he cant fit a metal profile in the corner, just bring the edges together with sealant.

Can these products really work fitted over existing tiling?

Thanks for reading.
 
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He needs to pull them all off and fit Aquapanel. He's suggesting a complete bodge.
 
Why would you want PVC cladding? It would look hideous. Aquapanel - then tile with good quality materials.
 
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Why would you want PVC cladding?

Posts here on UKnot make me think that any tiling, on almost any backing is going to have problems being blasted with a power shower for 20 minutes at a time. We're not bothered how it looks - just that it's 100% waterproof.

I'm concerned that if the backing is waterproof, it's still outside the shower tray, so will put water outside the tray once it's behind the tiles.
 
Public showers at the local gym cop water all day long and don't fall off. The guy obviously isn't up to the job. Get further quotes and opinions.
 
if its a power shower and your in it for some time as you say....then an epoxy grout should have been used,,,this is what is used in public showers/gyms etc....


your best bet is to rake/remove the grout within the wet area using a dremmel etc and then grout using epoxy grout...this will cure the problem,but how bad is the wall subtrate behind the tiles?? in the affected area...
 
but how bad is the wall subtrate behind the tiles?? in the affected area...

Even where it's exposed to the air, where the couple of tiles are off, it's still thoroughly damp after a week and a half. It obviously built up there for a long time before it seeped down to the floor.

I noticed some damage to the plaster along the wall a long time before, but hadn't realised it was happening from behind.

The tiles held on okay - they had to be pinged off to see what's happening.

Someone fresh is coming to give a quote today.

View media item 39753 View media item 39754
 
looking at your pics...thats a total strip out and redo...

it is plasterboard in the pics.

dont even think overboarding it, with rearo/seilke boards, all you will be doing is trapping in the damp..which is a no..no..

other point is,usually work done is under warranty etc for 12 months,how long after did you notice/inform the original contractor.
 
looking at your pics...thats a total strip out and redo...
other point is,usually work done is under warranty etc for 12 months,how long after did you notice/inform the original contractor.

Thanks - another contractor looked today, and they agree it's a complete strip. So they're giving me a price to take the tiles off and change the plaster for something (new? else?), then put in two single panels, meeting at a proper profile in the corner.

~~Advice Request~~ I know nothing about walls, plaster or plumbing. What in layman's terms should be removed, and what put back in its place?

*sigh*

The original contractor probably should do all this, but he's been very ill and is only just back on his feet. I know he may be ill again soon, and he went a long stretch without earning, and is now booked up again. I'm just going to let this slide rather than enforce a job with zero pay. I'm trading dosh for karma, I guess.

Right - I need to shop around for quotes, and fast.
 
are you getting seilke boards fitted then...if so

the walls are these studwork i.e.plasterboard?

if so the plasterboard should be ripped off the studs(timber) will be de-nailed/screws any rotten bits removed and replaced...

when i fit seilke i reboard with plasterboard then fix the panels to this using a grip/grab adhesive (pink grip) or recommended mfr stuff...

if you look thro this tiling forum type in rearo boards i put up a pdf on how they should be fitted/fixed a while back.
 

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