GRP v solid wood external

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I am looking at replacing an old upvc front door with something else.
GRP I see is a sub-version of composite and cheaper. How easy is it to fit locks to it rather than solid wood?
Which is stronger grp or 44mm wood?
Someone said fixing multi point lock to grp is fiddly.
 
If the difference between GRP and composite door is the GRP is a foam core whilst the composite is a solid timber core then i'd prefer a composite just for strength, however I'm confused about why you want to fit multi point locks to them when 99% already come with them already fitted, just curious
 
Full disclosure first: I'm with Home Energy Saving Solutions (Home ESS), a family-run window and door firm in Manchester, and we fit composite doors, so bear that in mind. I'm not trying to sell you anything here, just something that might save you a headache.

I think the reason the door you found looks so plain is that it's a door slab (just the leaf), not a doorset. Most composite and GRP-skinned front doors are sold as a complete doorset: the leaf comes already hung in its own frame, with the multi-point lock, hinges, threshold and glass fitted at the factory. That's why crank39 says 99% come with the lock already on. You take out the old uPVC door and frame and fit the whole set as one unit.

If you buy a bare slab you take all of that on yourself:

- routing a long, accurate mortice down the edge for a multi-point lock and lining the keeps up with the frame. This is the fiddly bit people warn you about, and if it's slightly out the door won't lock smoothly or seal properly
- hanging it, plus a letterbox, cylinder and any glazing
- a frame to hang it in. An old uPVC door frame is made for its own uPVC door, so it almost certainly won't take a 44mm slab. You'd be replacing the frame anyway.

On strength, a good composite doorset and a good 44mm hardwood door are both solid. In practice, how secure a front door is comes down more to the lock, the cylinder (get an anti-snap one) and how well the door is fitted and fixed than to GRP versus timber. GRP-skinned doors don't need painting and won't swell or warp the way timber can, which is why most people replacing a uPVC front door end up going composite.

So for a DIY job I'd look for a supplier who sells the door as a complete, pre-hung doorset made to your opening size, rather than a slab. Measure the brick opening, not the old frame, and check whether the price includes the lock, cylinder and threshold. For reference, our own fitted composite doors start from £1,000 and the final price depends on the style, colour and extras, so that gives you something to compare a supply-only price against.

Hope that helps, and good luck with it.
 
Thank you.
The last place I swapped to a solid wood door it came to around £1k inc labour and parts.
That door was not exposed directly to the elements though.
I would not try it myself.
 
If you get a wooden door you can fit a BS3621 lock, than which you will find none better. A Eurocylinder has various vulnerabilities.

Plastic doors need to be festooned with multiple point hooks and bolts becaide the material is intrinsically wesk.
 
But how many BS3621 mortice locks would need to be fitted to achieve an equivalent level of security and load distribution as a modern multi-point locking system on a composite door, John? A BS3621rated mortice lock may meet a recognised security standard, but ultimately it remains only as strong as the surrounding door construction and the frame retaining the striker plate.

Early in my career, when I was involved in emergency glazing, boarding-up work and basic locksmithing, I spent a considerable amount of time repairing forced entry damage to timber doors and frames as well as uPVC. I was by no means a master locksmith, but I knew my way around picking a mortice lock and drilling or snapping a standard euro cylinder where necessary. I lost count of the number of split timber door stiles I had to glue and screw back together, or the number of damaged frames that required splicing and reinforcement before a striker plate could be refitted. In most cases, the lock itself had not failed; the surrounding timber had. Yet in over 16 years working in that industry, I can honestly say I never encountered a single euro cylinder that had been attacked in situ. That's not to suggest cylinder attacks do not occur, because lock snapping became a well documented issue in later years, but it's worth noting that euro cylinder technology has evolved significantly since the 90s and early 2000s.

Anti-snap, anti-bump and anti-drill cylinders have been widely available since around 2010, and the market today ranges from basic budget cylinders costing less than £10 through to TS007 3-star accredited cylinders exceeding £100. All of that is positive progress, but it doesn't alter the fundamental engineering principle: the security of any locking system is ultimately limited by the strength of the door and frame to which it is fitted. A multi-point locking system spreads loads across multiple locking points along the full height of the door, reducing the concentration of force at a single location.

By comparison, a traditional mortice lock secures the door at one primary point, meaning the surrounding timber and frame are required to withstand far greater localised loading during an attempted forced entry. In simple terms, the lock specification is only one part of the security equation. The overall performance of the system depends on the lock, the door leaf, the frame, the keeps, the fixings and how effectively they work together under attack.
 
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If you get a wooden door you can fit a BS3621 lock, than which you will find none better. A Eurocylinder has various vulnerabilities.

Plastic doors need to be festooned with multiple point hooks and bolts becaide the material is intrinsically wesk.
The past door did have a "bs3621 5 lever mortice deadlock" and "ERA BS High Security Nightlatch"
 
But how many BS3621 mortice locks would need to be fitted to achieve an equivalent level of security and load distribution as a modern multi-point locking system on a composite door, John? A BS3621rated mortice lock may meet a recognised security standard, but ultimately it remains only as strong as the surrounding door construction and the frame retaining the striker plate.

Early in my career, when I was involved in emergency glazing, boarding-up work and basic locksmithing, I spent a considerable amount of time repairing forced entry damage to timber doors and frames as well as uPVC. I was by no means a master locksmith, but I knew my way around picking a mortice lock and drilling or snapping a standard euro cylinder where necessary. I lost count of the number of split timber door stiles I had to glue and screw back together, or the number of damaged frames that required splicing and reinforcement before a striker plate could be refitted. In most cases, the lock itself had not failed; the surrounding timber had. Yet in over 16 years working in that industry, I can honestly say I never encountered a single euro cylinder that had been attacked in situ. That's not to suggest cylinder attacks do not occur, because lock snapping became a well documented issue in later years, but it's worth noting that euro cylinder technology has evolved significantly since the 90s and early 2000s.

Anti-snap, anti-bump and anti-drill cylinders have been widely available since around 2010, and the market today ranges from basic budget cylinders costing less than £10 through to TS007 3-star accredited cylinders exceeding £100. All of that is positive progress, but it doesn't alter the fundamental engineering principle: the security of any locking system is ultimately limited by the strength of the door and frame to which it is fitted. A multi-point locking system spreads loads across multiple locking points along the full height of the door, reducing the concentration of force at a single location.

By comparison, a traditional mortice lock secures the door at one primary point, meaning the surrounding timber and frame are required to withstand far greater localised loading during an attempted forced entry. In simple terms, the lock specification is only one part of the security equation. The overall performance of the system depends on the lock, the door leaf, the frame, the keeps, the fixings and how effectively they work together under attack.
Yes, depends on frame and maybe how long the screws are.
To make a "5 lever" stronger you could try a https://peterdiy.co.uk/products/gerda-zw-500-zw550 plus a https://yalehome.co.uk/bs1-max-security-nightlatch/.
You can add a 3* lock to the Polish lock and https://www.firesealsdirect.co.uk/p...335431418192385&utm_content=SGM-MS-PM-ZOMBIES. Seems hard to break to me with all of those.
 
Early in my career, when I was involved in emergency glazing, boarding-up work and basic locksmithing, I spent a considerable amount of time repairing forced entry damage to timber doors and frames as well as uPVC.

Early in your career, it's possible that the majority of homes had wooden doors, and so would have been the majority of break-ins.

Today, any 12-year-old can be shown a few ways to defeat a Eurocylinder in less than a minute.
 
Early in your career, it's possible that the majority of homes had wooden doors, and so would have been the majority of break-ins.

Today, any 12-year-old can be shown a few ways to defeat a Eurocylinder in less than a minute.
Do those 2* handles or 2* Escutcheon actually help defend a basic Euro?
These days do people actually force there way in with a kit or tools? Seems noisy.
 
Some of them make it harder to twist or snap the cylinder. A few have a spinning disk to resist a drill.
 
OK, 2* handle and a 3* lock seems the best to me.
At the last place with the new frame and 44mm wooden door I bought 5cm plus screws for the locks & strike plates. May make it harder to physical get in.
 

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