Guidance on moving cold water main stop tap location

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I have read a few posts here in the forum, and I am getting some conflicting answers. So thought I would ask a fresh question with my specific scenario.

Scenario: We're looking to install a new kitchen, and change the kitchen layout. Our current unit has the sink unit come out from the property side wall at 90 degrees into the room. The water main comes through the block and beam floor directly under the sink, at a position approx 1.2m from the wall of the property.

We want to get rid of this sink arrangement, and run the units down the full length of the room. This would leave the existing cold water main and stop top poking up right in the middle of the floor.

Our floor construction is block and beam, with 150mm insulation and then 50-75mm screed on top.

I did some research, and the one definitive answer I could see is that the water main should be one continuous pipe from meter to stop tap, and that it cannot be joined. Or at least it cannot be joined within the property. I contacted Northumbrian Water for advice, to see if they need to be involved, and they advised as it is pipework after the meter and within the property, it is the homeowners responsibility to undertake the works. But they did say, and I quote "To clarify, the supply pipe does not need to remain as one continuous run from the meter to the internal stop tap. The pipework can be altered and extended as part of your kitchen renovation, provided the work is completed by a competent plumber and complies with the relevant water regulations."

Initially I was under the impression that the pipe cannot be joined and buried in screed. So I was looking at installing a discreet in floor tray with a lid, into which flooring can be fitted, making an almost invisible access hatch to the plumbing joints. But with the info from the water board, I am wondering if I can do the following:

1) Excavate through the screed and insulation to the Block and Beam floor - taking caution to not affect the beams.
2) Lift the blocks between the water main location and the intended new location at the wall. Probably 3-4 blocks
3) Extend the MDPE pipe with suitable fittings and pass the pipe through the floor at the new location, and install the stop tap
4) make good on the blocks, making sure to seal up any holes. I think there will be a membrane on top of the blocks and below the insulation which will need to be resealed?
5) Refit insulation, and potentially use expanding foam in the gaps to seal it, and tape up the foil surface of the insulation
6) Fill in the excavation with fresh screed.

The blocks etc can be left open for a few days with the system at pressure to check for leaks etc. also, the plumbing can be rerun to the new stop tap location.

Am I on the right track here?

I have been trying to get a plumber out to look at this job and give me a quote, but I have tried 4 and non of them have turned up. I am reasonably competent, and I believe I can do the work, if I cannot find a plumber to do it for me. I just want to make sure I am not overlooking any gotchas or regulations.

Thanks
 
Would it be easeyer to find the main outside & divert it as i assume there is an outside stop cock. Or is this not feasable.
The outside stop cock is at the meter, which is at the front of the property.

If I understand what I think you are saying this would require not only digging down to the depth of the water main to run a new trench to the property, but also require either digging a trench along the side of the property, or under the property to come up into the void beneath the block and beam floor, and then through the block and beam floor.

This would be a significant undertaking to trench and tunnel under the property to run the new main.

Is this what you mean?
 
Could you not utilise the existing location into a new base unit and just alter the plumbing accordingly, or have I misinterpreted that? The conflicting answers might be in relation to running a supply off before the meter.
 
Just do what you suggested at the beginning, no issues at all.
Thank you Denso, it's great to have some confirmation that I am going down the right path.

For anyone else looking at this, to give you an idea of my situation, this is a capture from a YouTube video review of our exact property.

1791590900358.png

https://youtu.be/9tCgbnBoO4k?si=N3XtF8iRoXs5h2Gc&t=191

You can see the sink unit comes out from the side wall at 90 degrees. The water main comes up through the block and beam floor essentially directly under the tap location.

The kitchen is very small, for a 4 bed house. So we're going to run base units the full length of that wall, with either a peninsular at the far end, or an island towards the french door end.

But you can see how the water main location would be right in the middle of the floor. I want to relocate it to the left hand wall, next to that boxed section you can see, which is the soil stack. We will have a unit there, and the stop tap can be located inside that new unit.
 
The void under block and beam should be ventilated, air bricks every few metres, so in winter it’s basically at outside temperature. A new run of MDPE sitting in there with no lagging is exactly what I’ve seen freeze. Insulate the whole length in the void and where it rises through the floor, and use a proper sleeve where it passes through the membrane so you can seal round it.


And while it doesn’t have to be one continuous run, I’d always make it one if I could. Every joint is somewhere that can weep, and under a floor you won’t know about it until it’s been going a while.
 

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