Have I do the right tap washers fitted?

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Basically, I replaced the washers on a mixer tap a few months back and the new ones are smaller because I figured out the old ones were too big for the valve bore and causing low water flow. The new ones were big an improvement.

I looked tried the taps today and the problem has returned. A turn or so before the water flows on the cold. I took the valve out and the seat has indented the washer with a groove so I'm wondering if this type of tap is supposed to use ordinary washer or not.

Here's the photos -

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Can you post a pic of the replacement tap washer as you fitted it onto the tap valve

Blup
 
The 3rd photo above is the fitted washer.

I took it of the valve to get a better photo of the washer face that seals on the bore face, 2nd photo.
 
Difficult to say without seeing the washer in situ but looks oversized, hence it being crushed

An independent plumber would be able to identify the correct part.

blup
 
Is the washer the same size as the jumper it sits on? This may take a washer with rounded edges, might be called a Delta washer.
 
If your tap washer looks like that, you are turning the taps off too hard. If you need to crank them down so hard to stop them dripping, then there is a good chance that the seatings are pitted and grooved. They can sometimes be ground down if the grooves and pitting isn't too deep but usually new taps are required
 
IME the people who turn off taps with great force tend to be older people who have lived with dripping, worn-out taps and have got into the habit of doing them up tighter and tighter instead of changing the washers. You'll probably find your spindle feels a bit loose too as the thread is worn out.

An undamaged tap and washer can be turned off with a fingertip and might last 30 years on the original washer without dripping or significant wear on the thread.
 
Well I've put a replacement 15mm tap washer on and the water is flowing nicely so just needs a nip in future when turning off.

I do however think its a bad tap deign to have a grove in the valve seat that acts to indent the washer. Far better just to have a flat face for the washer to check on to.

By the way, thanks all for posting!
 
I got a pack of 3/8" tap washer which have an o/d of 16mm. The rubber is lot firmer than the ones I got at the local hardware a couple of days back, those ones were quite soft.

I've fitted a couple of these new 3/8" washers to the taps and they seem better when turning off the taps so obviously better quality rubber.

Just a note, I measured the washer seats and they're about 17.5mm diameter so that's some way between a 3/8" washer which is 16mm and a 1/2" washer which is 19mm.

The taps did have 1/2" washer but they wouldn't pass easily through the tap thread so it seems 3/8 is right for the job.

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I suppose this is a DIY forum but if I had to go through all of this for a customer it'd end up costing a couple of hundred quid whereas a new one of those supplied and fitted would be about a 1er :rolleyes:
 
That's the philosophy behind DIY, saving the £s!

I planed a door yesterday, I wonder what joiner would charge for that!
 
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So we have chippies, brickies and sparkies.

What's the modern term for plumber?
.... may as well be politically correct on all counts!
 
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