replace washer on mixer tap

[mickcoulson]

hi.... i want replace the washer on my kitchen hot water mixer tap but there isn't an islation vave. the tap is gravity fed not a lot of water comes out when turned on (continentel taps and only run slowly or so i'm told ) would it be possible to change the washer without running the hot water down and leave the flow on.
cheers mickcoulson

 

[Elkato531]

Always best to isolate. Tap washers can break up or come off as the valve is removed and you've then got to dig around while water floods from the tap body.
You may be able to isolate at the gate valve on the feed into the cylinder but these can be unreliable. Lever valves are better.
Failing that, you can bung the outlet from the cold water cistern in the loft. You can buy special bungs but I usually use a big lump of Blu-Tac.
If you are intent on doing it live, allow the cylinder to cool so as you're not fighting very hot water spilling from the tap. If you can, have something ready to screw in to replace the valve when you remove it. This will allow you to work on changing the washer in less of a panic.
A tap reviver kit may be a good idea. Then it'll be old valve out and new one quickly in.

 

[foxhole]

Put a bung in feed tank .

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

the tap is gravity fed not a lot of water comes out when turned on (continentel taps and only run slowly or so i'm told ) would it be possible to change the washer without running the hot water down and leave the flow on.

Might 'the mixer tap', with poor flow, actually be a ceramic 1/4 turn tap? Those are really intended for mains pressure HW systems, such as combi-boilers. It will not be as simple a job, as changing a washer.

Normally the HW flow from a gravity system is quite good, via the multi-turn taps, which use a washer.

 

[Madrab]

As suggested - If it's gravity fed then look in where your HW cylinder lives, there may be a red handled gate valve that's on the feed pipe from the Cold water cistern in the attic down into the HW cylinder, turning that off should isolate the HW.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Turning off a gate valve that might never open again, welcome to a world of pain.

Andy

 

[Madrab]

Turning off a gate valve that might never open again, welcome to a world of pain.

Andy

nah, bung/empty the cistern, cut out the gate and slap in a lever In fact probably best to do that anyway

 

[HERTS P&D]

Yes, easy for a plumber but not for a DIYER.

Andy

 

[Madrab]

OP, if you do find a gate valve work it back and forward a few times if it's stiff and don't tighten it down too tightly, a squirt of WD40 on the shaft will help too ... if the HW tap still drips with the gate valve off then don't worry about it just catch the overspill at the tap, gate valves can be like that. Going too tight on the gate valve either open or closed then they can jam and then snap.

Worst case if it does snap closed then if you are confident and skilled enough to take a tap apart and change a washer, I don't think it would be too far a stretch, if needed, to then put a bung in the CW cistern or drain/bale it, disconnect the gate valve's 2 compression nuts and put a lever valve in it's place.

Best scenario, it's a 22mm and the nuts/olives can be re-used. Worst case it's a 3/4" then it's a pipe slice/hacksaw, trim off the nuts, a compression straight with 3/4 olives and PTFE tape and then the new lever valve with the same and you will need a small piece of pipe. Even then it's not a difficult task, just be methodical.

If draining a CW cistern, just remember to open all the HW taps before refilling to avoid it airlocking