Heatline boiler ( capriz 25 ) not working

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Hi,
Got a problem with my Heatline Capriz 25 Combi boiler.

My heating started to go a week ago. The boiler would fire up but not continually so the water would never get to temperature and my boiler would be constantly firing up. I put more water into the system upto 2bar and bled a radiator to take it back down to 1.5 bar and this somehow resolved the problem...

Until yesterday, It fired up in the moring on timer, but when it went off I flcked the timer onto continuous and nothing happened!

No LEDS on, nothing.

I opened it up got to the circuit board and both 2Amp fuses were blown.

I replaced them, and it worked again!

But only for 15 mins when I turned it on and off at the plug the LEDs came on but didnt fire. I thought it was an issue with the timer so fiddled with that and i accidentally crossed wires on the timer terminals. (red 1 and white 3). This caused a small spark and No LEDS nothing again!


Bought a new PCB, put that in 1 hour ago. It fired up! LEDS all on.

5 mins later the 3Amp fuse in the plug blew!

Now I'm thinking its an issue with either the Pump or Gas Valve?? Does this sound like it could be?

I'm currently in the process of takinig the pump apartand seeing if that has got blcoked and is over loading the cirucit? Or if its not earthing...

Any help would be greatly apprecieated..

btw taking the pump apart, do i need to drain the system or turn off the water supply??

Just replaced my PCB as there were no LED's lighting up at all.
 
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Another mad DIYer who replaces parts when they are not faulty!

These boilers are installed on dirty systems without cleaning them.

The diverter valve gland leaks into the diverter valve motor which fails and shorts so the fuses blow.

The gland is about £18 and the about £35.

Much cheaper that changing the PCB !

In fact for what you will have spent you would have saved money by getting a professional to fix it for you!

Tony
 
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Another mad DIYer who replaces parts when they are not faulty!

These boilers are installed on dirty systems without cleaning them.

The diverter valve gland leaks into the diverter valve motor which fails and shorts so the fuses blow.

The gland is about £18 and the about £35.

Much cheaper that changing the PCB !

In fact for what you will have spent you would have saved money by getting a professional to fix it for you!

Tony

OK, thanks for the tip! The PCB was £80, and to be honest I think I had no choice! The new fuses didn't blow again when I changed them after the first time round. Because apparantly when the fuses blew first time, they don't usally blow quick enough before the wires inside a couple of relays on the PCB can fuse together.( Knowing this now I would buy new relays from Maplin and solder them on before buying a whole new PCB. ). So the PCB was fooked leading to no LEDs lighting up.

Update.

Considered the pump was clogged up and was overloading the system. So I gave it a whack with a hammer. Fired up my system and gave the pump another whack. All LEDs on, heating is on, all seems to be working 100% now touch wood!
 
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I think your tip on the diverter valve/motor might be worth looking into. I think my system is beginning to constanly re ignite - never reaching temp, like before.

I'll keep u updated.
 
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Pumps dont overload systems even if stalled as their impedance is suficiently high not to make much difference to the current drawn.

Wait for the fuses to blow again.

Thats assuming the pump was not spoilt to the point that its leaked water into the windings.

I would never recommend hitting any boiler with a hammer, except perhaps for a Saunier Duval but that would not be with a view to repairing it but rather to kill it.

Tony
 
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Pumps dont overload systems even if stalled as their impedance is suficiently high not to make much difference to the current drawn.

Wait for the fuses to blow again.

Thats assuming the pump was not spoilt to the point that its leaked water into the windings.

I would never recommend hitting any boiler with a hammer, except perhaps for a Saunier Duval but that would not be with a view to repairing it but rather to kill it.

Tony

Ok, oh dear i hope I've not made matters worse! spose hammer is only good for frustration!

I'm a bit tight for cash would there be any way I could service the diverter motor/valve myself?
 
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Easier and safer than changing a PCB.

Tony
 
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Boilers been working fine for a couple of months now! So there u go Agile - thanks for the advice but take your snooty attitude down a notch hey!
 
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Well maybe, but if the pump seized as it was full of crud, you have won a battle but not the war. If your Central Heating water is filthy, then you need it draining and cleansing either with some Sentinal X400 which is quite mild or the ubiquitous powerflush which is a lot more aggressive.

You need to figure out why the pump decided it had had enough.

If your HW is not famous the heat exchanger might need cleaning as well (I don't know the layout on this model)

Its 50/50 that you might have knackered you own PCB though.

Alfredo
 
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Boilers been working fine for a couple of months now! So there u go Agile - thanks for the advice but take your snooty attitude down a notch hey!

I work in the industry and have tried to help you with your problem all totally free.

But that comment just seems rather rude.

You could of course edit it out!
 
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Boilers been working fine for a couple of months now! So there u go Agile - thanks for the advice but take your snooty attitude down a notch hey!

well said. everyone on this site knows what he is like. he doesn't know where his arse is never mind how to fit a boiler
 
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Its generally thought by some customers that plumbers are uneducated and rude!

But you dont have to perpetuate that image!

Not all are!
 
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