Heatmeiser Slimline v Neostat

[RichA]

Am due to be getting UFH (both wet & electric) soon and have been researching thermostats.

What is the difference between the Heatmeiser Slimline v Neostat?

Which of the two is better/preferred?

Thanks.

 

[ericmark]

It is all in the instructions, Heatmeiser Slim line (12 volt 3 Amp max) has a remote air sensor, and Neostat (230 volt 3 Amp max) has a remote air and a remote floor temperature sensor. Neither suitable for electric as current too low, and which is used for water would depend on the water system, in the main there is a manifold which limits floor temperature by limiting water temperature.

To fit underfloor heating on ground floor means often lifting floor to fit insulation, and the major problem with any under floor is the heat/cooling time, there are two reasons to fit, one is to dry the floor in a wet room, the other is to use the heat from a back boiler, with solid fuel heating what you want is to delay the house cooling once fire has gone out, and for this under floor works.

As to warm floors the plinth heater works better, the fan assisted radiator blows warm air across the floor so it does warm floor, and is also fast heating the room, so geofencing works. However both fan assisted radiators and underfloor heating is expensive to install, under floor heating also expensive to run, where fan assisted cheaper to run because so easy to control.

Son has underfloor heating in bedrooms, it is solely to get rid of excess heat when solid fuel cooker is used, stops the water boiling.

 

[RichA]

The UFH plan is :
- G/F kitchen - wet UFH in screed (already laid)
- 1/F bathroom - elec UFH under tiles (to be laid when tiled)

The rest of the rooms have rads. I think they do an e-version of both the Neo and Slimline

 

[ericmark]

In the main wet UFH is controlled by a manifold which limits the temperature of the floor, so there is no need for a sensor connected to thermostat, and in the main electric UFH has no temperature limiter other than the thermostat probe, however this is not always true, there is a chemical used with electric which is self limiting, however when mine was laid it would have required a earth screen above the chemical type, where the resistance wire type came with a earth braid built in, so latter was used.

Central heating is a system, it is not a collection of individual parts, it is designed as a whole, the Heatmiser Touch-E as you point out is rated 16A and has a floor sensor, do ensure there is a pocket for the sensor so it can be replaced without lifting the floor, and any bends are large enough so the sensor can get around them.

I am really not sure if a thermostat is required to measure air temperature, as at 27°C maximum floor temperature the underfloor heating never gets the room warm, it only removes the chill, without the towel rail our wet room would be very cold, with an extractor fan the room temperature is the same as the hall without the towel rail as that's where it draws the air from. So the cheapest thermostat is good enough as all it does in real terms is stop floor over heating, it does not control room temperature.