Heatslave 12/14 lockout

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Morning all,

Iv been having several lockouts on my heatslave 12/14 in the past 2 days and after replacing a thew obvious parts it’s still locking out…

Iv replaced the ignition unit, solenoid and control unit..

When pressing the reset button the burner will make a humming noise but won’t fire up or turn the oil pump.. works fine when it does fire up tho..

I used to help service oil burners many years ago but gave it up because the smell of oil…

I’’ tempted to replace the pump next.

can anyone advise what else could be causing the lockout?
 
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If the motor is humming but not spinning, maybe you could look at it's start capacitor?
Another thing....don't hold the pump tight with it's three allen screws - they can push it out of alignment. Back them off a little.
John :)
 
If the motor is humming but not spinning, maybe you could look at it's start capacitor?
Another thing....don't hold the pump tight with it's three allen screws - they can push it out of alignment. Back them off a little.
John :)

morning John,

the capacitor is difficult to pull out without taking the whole unit out as my fingers don’t fit ..

so you recommend loosening the 3 screws that hold the pump in place?

for what little the cost I’m happy to replace the Capacitor and pump as they’ve had a long life up until now ☺️
 
I find that keeping those screws on the slack side is beneficial....but it varies from burner to burner. If the motor and pump are slightly out of alignment the motor can find it difficult to start.
So long as the pump can deliver the required pressure - in the region of 110 psi - then it's ok for now....they often come from Danfoss set at 150 psi for some reason. The filter is on the side, under one allen screw.
Releasing the burner is simple enough - two screws at the top of the blast tube area and it pulls free (depending on the length of oil supply pipe of course, and the electric harness just unplugs).
The B9A burner is a great little thing and parts are readily available.....it's easy enough to test the motor on the bench too.
John :)
Allow me to edit.....if the capacitor shows any sign of blackening or swelling then it's game over.
J.
 
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Allow me to edit.....if the capacitor shows any sign of blackening or swelling then it's game over.
J.

thsnks again John,

Iv got an amp multimeter which I checked the capacitor with but not sure if I had the meter set to the correct setting. I got a low reading on the capacitor of 0.30 but not sure if I had the meter set correct?!
 

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Testing a capacitor with a multimeter isn’t as straightforward as it seems, unfortunatey.....I have my own theories but others will know better.
Here’s my disclaimer!!
My method - with the cap on the bench and disconnected from everything for half an hour, so it’s completely discharged......
Set the meter to high resistance and touch it onto the cap leads
Immediately set the meter to dc volts and there should be a reading which will reduce as the cap discharges.
Personally I’d replace the thing.....it’s the only way to be absolutely sure. The value is around 4uf I think.
John :)
 
Testing a capacitor with a multimeter isn’t as straightforward as it seems, unfortunatey.....I have my own theories but others will know better.
Here’s my disclaimer!!
My method - with the cap on the bench and disconnected from everything for half an hour, so it’s completely discharged......
Set the meter to high resistance and touch it onto the cap leads
Immediately set the meter to dc volts and there should be a reading which will reduce as the cap discharges.
Personally I’d replace the thing.....it’s the only way to be absolutely sure. The value is around 4uf I think.
John :)

so I’m guessing the capacitor will supply the starting motor which when working will turn the pump etc?

I’ll change the capacitor first and if no joy i’m guessing it’ll be the actual starting motor? I may have to call an engineer to test that unless I just replace it aswell…. It’s been a long time since I worked on boilers but I vaguely remember everything..

I just don’t have the tools or equipment to test everything any more..
 
Without going ito the science of things, the capacitor tells the motor which way to turn.....without it, the motor will just do a 50Hz shuffle and not know which way to spin. The same thing can be done with your fingers, with the motor on the bench.
John :)
 
Without going ito the science of things, the capacitor tells the motor which way to turn.....without it, the motor will just do a 50Hz shuffle and not know which way to spin. The same thing can be done with your fingers, with the motor on the bench.
John :)

Iv had to take the whole ignition out to get the capacitor unscrewed.. I’m not totally sure if my multimeter is set up for the correct reading so I’ll get the capacitor changed and see if that does the trick..
 
your multimeter doesn't have the facility to check a capacitor
 
your multimeter doesn't have the facility to check a capacitor
Thanks I didn’t think it was right..


Out of curiosity, does anyone know how the order in which the motor fire up? Does the solenoid on the pump and the motor get a signal to fire up at same time or will the motor turn the pump…

My motor is a bentons 70w but struggling to find a 70w on the internet. They’re all 90w. I could replace the motor and pump for about £180…

it’s just finding the 70w motor that’s the problem…. If I replace them 2 parts there’s not much else it can be?
 
Always go for the genuine motor.....others may look very similar but the differences are subtle and important.
I use Heating World of Spares - it's fairly near to me but their mail order service is good.

When you switch the boiler on, the motor starts spinning, (driving the pump at the same time) and the electrical spark is present.
After a few seconds 'purge time' the oil supply to the burner nozzle is turned on courtesy of the solenoid coil on top of the oil pump.
Flame should establish, and once this happens the photocell notices this and keeps the oil flowing.
The electric ignition spark then ceases.
The timing of all this is courtesy of the Satronic control box you can see.

You can check the motor on the bench....take the fan off and couple up a 240v supply.
Switch on - the motor should spin up quickly to 3000 rpm. Try this several times.
With the motor supported in a vice or whatever, hold the spindle then switch it on.....(really!) if you can stop the motor spinning then its goosed.
Likewise, if the spindle fractionally tremors two and fro it's a capacitor issue - or the motor is goosed too.

John :)
 
Always go for the genuine motor.....others may look very similar but the differences are subtle and important.
I use Heating World of Spares - it's fairly near to me but their mail order service is good.

When you switch the boiler on, the motor starts spinning, (driving the pump at the same time) and the electrical spark is present.
After a few seconds 'purge time' the oil supply to the burner nozzle is turned on courtesy of the solenoid coil on top of the oil pump.
Flame should establish, and once this happens the photocell notices this and keeps the oil flowing.
The electric ignition spark then ceases.
The timing of all this is courtesy of the Satronic control box you can see.

You can check the motor on the bench....take the fan off and couple up a 240v supply.
Switch on - the motor should spin up quickly to 3000 rpm. Try this several times.
With the motor supported in a vice or whatever, hold the spindle then switch it on.....(really!) if you can stop the motor spinning then its goosed.
Likewise, if the spindle fractionally tremors two and fro it's a capacitor issue - or the motor is goosed too.

John :)

just to make sure the pump was getting oil i loosened the bleed screw after resetting the lockout button, no oil was passing threw the pump which means the motor isn’t spinning, I’m hoping this is down to a faulty capacitor but won’t know until it arrives and it’s been sent over from Northen Island so could take a week to get here ‍♂️
 

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