Heatslave 26/32 Burner/air issue

[john975]

Heatslave 26/32 Burner/air issue

We have the above boiler and the burner tripped out so we had the boiler serviced(full service). After the service it tripped out again. heating engineer said just reset it. We did so and kept resetting eventually after a week unit would not reset.

Called engineer again, he again replaced nozzle and checked oil pressure. tripped out on burner while engineer was there. Engineer said run it without silver box on burner.

Boiler ran for one week or so with silver box off. Today and yesterday it has tripped out on the burner again.

Anyone any ideas.

 

[oilhead]

Get a competent service technician.

 

[john975]

The boiler no longer runs at all with the silver box on. it will still run with silver box off.

 

[john975]

Get a competent service technician.

WB has told him to check flue for blockages he took readings from flue. He says next step is to disassemble flue / explore air intake.(photocel was previously replaced during service)

 

[john975]

this is an RS flue. the flue goes out at an angle. So there is a square bend. in the bend there is 4 fireboards. The fireboards had crumbled thus blocking the flue.


anyone any idea were I can get replacement fireboards and will the plumber have hoovered out any broken fireboard that fell down the flue when he did the service?

 

[john975]

Photo's attached

 

[john975]

Even after clearing the fireboard the boiler still trips at the burner. Has anyone got any idea's....

 

[denso13]

Get a competent service technician.

 

[oilhead]

Plenty of ideas.
Without the silver box on, there is no reason why the burner should not fire. You already know that the oil pressure is correct, so first check for spark. Take the burner out, remove the solenoid coil lead, and try starting the burner looking for a spark at the electrodes. If you have a spark, replace the burner in the boiler, replace the solenoid coil lead, try starting again. If it locks out, remove the burner and check for oil on the blast tube. If you have oil, replace the burner, place your hand over the air intake on the burner, if it lights, then you know it is over aired, so reduce the air supply. This is where you need a flue gas analyser, or at least a smoke pump.
Regarding the flue insulation, you can purchase ceramic board of the correct thickness and cut new pieces. When you replace the flue cover, you will need to ensure it is gastight or you will have the same problem again.
To an experienced technician, this is no problem. I hope you get your money back from the muppet you have used.

 

[john975]

Get a competent service technician.

Were do you get one of them lol. Seriously I have a boiler needing repaired(this one). I have another different plumber supposed to be doing a full install on another property I own. (he was supposed to start last week)

 

[john975]

Plenty of ideas.
Without the silver box on, there is no reason why the burner should not fire. You already know that the oil pressure is correct, so first check for spark. Take the burner out, remove the solenoid coil lead, and try starting the burner looking for a spark at the electrodes. If you have a spark, replace the burner in the boiler, replace the solenoid coil lead, try starting again. If it locks out, remove the burner and check for oil on the blast tube. If you have oil, replace the burner, place your hand over the air intake on the burner, if it lights, then you know it is over aired, so reduce the air supply. This is where you need a flue gas analyser, or at least a smoke pump.
Regarding the flue insulation, you can purchase ceramic board of the correct thickness and cut new pieces. When you replace the flue cover, you will need to ensure it is gastight or you will have the same problem again.
To an experienced technician, this is no problem. I hope you get your money back from the muppet you have used.

I have tried tonight to get it fired up, and now trips out every time even with silver cover off. I have called the plumber again hopefully he will call tomorrow.(if I am lucky)

No chance of getting cash back lol ill take a guess I can expect a further bill.

The boiler was given a service as it tripped out a few times. And was supposed to be repaired at the time.(Its had 2 burner nozzles, new expansion tank and photocell)

 

[john975]

plumber was out today, tried new photocell. still no joy. seemed to think it was just cutting off like it could not sense flame. I asked if he could bypass/ test photo cell. used a torch and burner kept going. He cleaned burner were photocell is inserted. boiler started and run for few hours. just fired it up again and it tripped out a few times. Eventually i got it running.

he also replaced full oil pump assembly just incase. And tried another control box with a slightly different part number.

Burner had same cut out issue running out of the boiler.

Anyone any ideas?
Could it be a capacitor/motor issue?

 

[Burnerman]

Back to the beginning for a while.....
Has the correct oil pressure been set, and has the air door setting been tampered with?
Presumably a good oil supply is available at the burner.....all taps on, filters clear etc.
A motor capacitor failure will prevent the motor from starting - this should be fairly obvious when the burner is trying to start, but obviously you have to be sitting on top of it when its trying to go.
If you have the photocell out of its housing, the burner should start if the cell is completely dark, and then can see bright light once the flame establishes.
Is it in its housing the correct way - so it can see the flame?
Only check for an ignition spark with the pump solenoid coil disconnected......!
John

 

[john975]

Back to the beginning for a while.....
Has the correct oil pressure been set, and has the air door setting been tampered with?
Presumably a good oil supply is available at the burner.....all taps on, filters clear etc.
A motor capacitor failure will prevent the motor from starting - this should be fairly obvious when the burner is trying to start, but obviously you have to be sitting on top of it when its trying to go.
If you have the photocell out of its housing, the burner should start if the cell is completely dark, and then can see bright light once the flame establishes.
Is it in its housing the correct way - so it can see the flame?
Only check for an ignition spark with the pump solenoid coil disconnected......!
John

This boiler was put in 8 years ago by a Worcester employed engineer,homer(not this plumber). its not had a service in 8 years. We got it serviced for the first time because it was tripping out. the boiler was fairly clean inside.

Oil and air mix has been checked

it starts and fires EVERY time. then cuts out. in or out the boiler(does not chug,just cuts out). Twice photocell was out with room light/torch and it ran. Photocell can only go in one way. Flame can be seen in the hole were the photo cell goes in.(I asked if he could check/ had another photocell lead, he never had one and I did not see him put a multimeter on the lead)

The boiler seems to have 2 faults or is it one fault. The silver box will not go on and run so there is an air issue/exhaust(you can hear it choking). This is bypassed by leaving the silver box off making the boiler perform like a CF boiler.

The motor does not sound noisey. Surely the only thing left is the control box, Which he says he checked with another that was a slightly different part number?

 

[john975]

I have called the plumber again, He say he will call in this afternoon but says "he does not know what he will be able to do"

So any help I would be grateful.