Heatslave lock out - please help !!
- Thread starter Heatslave
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Still at it Graeme 
To test the solenoid coil, put a multi meter set to resistance across the 2 lower terminals and you should get a reading.
To see if its actually magnetising, place some steel tool on the coil and you should feel the magnetic pull.
(This one is courtesy of the genuine experts on here...)!
John
To test the solenoid coil, put a multi meter set to resistance across the 2 lower terminals and you should get a reading.
To see if its actually magnetising, place some steel tool on the coil and you should feel the magnetic pull.
(This one is courtesy of the genuine experts on here...)!
John
John,
Thanks for taking the time to answer.
I've re-set the lockout switch with the solenoid valve disconnected and put a screwdriver in the hole, I can't feel any magnetic pull.
Does that suggest a faulty solenoid ?
Can you put a magnet on the "thingy" that the solenoid magnetises to get some oil flow through it ?
Thanks for taking the time to answer.
I've re-set the lockout switch with the solenoid valve disconnected and put a screwdriver in the hole, I can't feel any magnetic pull.
Does that suggest a faulty solenoid ?
Can you put a magnet on the "thingy" that the solenoid magnetises to get some oil flow through it ?
Hi Graeme
You should feel some sort of magnetic pull, but only when the control box tells the oil valve to open i.e about 6 sec after the fan starts up.
It sounds like the solenoid coil could be faulty - its common enough - and maybe the oil seen at the nozzle was kerosene just being blown out - who knows?
Anyway, its a Danfoss coil, number 071N0051 (nearly certain) and they cost around £22.
John
You should feel some sort of magnetic pull, but only when the control box tells the oil valve to open i.e about 6 sec after the fan starts up.
It sounds like the solenoid coil could be faulty - its common enough - and maybe the oil seen at the nozzle was kerosene just being blown out - who knows?
Anyway, its a Danfoss coil, number 071N0051 (nearly certain) and they cost around £22.
John
Sponsored Links
Hello,
Just an update for today,
I replaced the Danfoss oil pump, as it leaked a bit anyway, and with it came a new solenoid as I'm sure you would know.
Once it was all back together I fired her back up and away she she went with not much bleeding at all.
Has been running ok for a while now, but when I switched it off there was quite a bit of smoke / vapour (not sure which ?) coming out of behind the control panel. Hope it's just a bit of oil that I spilt vapourising ??
So just for anyone else in the same situation, I feel it was the solenoid on top of the oil pump not energising. I checked the voltage to it and it was about 74 volts. However, when I tried to energise it, there was no magnetic field generated when I put a screwriver in it, so there was no oil getting to the burner for the electrodes to light.
Hopefully, this will be the end of my latest hassle with a very unreliable boiler.
A very big thank you to all the people that contributed to my plight, in particular John (Burnerman) , and a big thank you to all the previous posts, as by reading them I was able to eliminate most things.
Now I need to get it set up by an engineer.
I'm never this lucky, so will post again in a couple of days probably with the house burnt down
Just an update for today,
I replaced the Danfoss oil pump, as it leaked a bit anyway, and with it came a new solenoid as I'm sure you would know.
Once it was all back together I fired her back up and away she she went with not much bleeding at all.
Has been running ok for a while now, but when I switched it off there was quite a bit of smoke / vapour (not sure which ?) coming out of behind the control panel. Hope it's just a bit of oil that I spilt vapourising ??
So just for anyone else in the same situation, I feel it was the solenoid on top of the oil pump not energising. I checked the voltage to it and it was about 74 volts. However, when I tried to energise it, there was no magnetic field generated when I put a screwriver in it, so there was no oil getting to the burner for the electrodes to light.
Hopefully, this will be the end of my latest hassle with a very unreliable boiler.
A very big thank you to all the people that contributed to my plight, in particular John (Burnerman)
, and a big thank you to all the previous posts, as by reading them I was able to eliminate most things.Now I need to get it set up by an engineer.
I'm never this lucky, so will post again in a couple of days probably with the house burnt down
Delighted that you're up and running again
There should be no visible smoke at the (balanced) flue - in fact the fumes shouldn't be particularly acrid to smell...sort of 'dampish'. Some condensation fume is normal.
Fumes inside the boiler casing? They will probably go, but you can fit a foam type gasket around the blast tube before shoving the burner back in the 'ole. Keep a nose out for this one.
Ideally you'll still need to get the thing set up by someone who has a smoke pump and a flue gas analyser. CO2 ideally around 10.5%.
Initially, the problem has been oil droplets just being blown out of the nozzle or the oil valve not opening right in the pump - which threw us off course a little.
I have noticed that these BFP41 pumps can leak a bit - usually around the pressure adjustment screw - usually when I don't have one in stock - but turning the screw forwards and back gets them sealing again.
Best wishes and well done! I'll dodge the e-blows but I quite like these burners.....
Cheers John
There should be no visible smoke at the (balanced) flue - in fact the fumes shouldn't be particularly acrid to smell...sort of 'dampish'. Some condensation fume is normal.
Fumes inside the boiler casing? They will probably go, but you can fit a foam type gasket around the blast tube before shoving the burner back in the 'ole. Keep a nose out for this one.
Ideally you'll still need to get the thing set up by someone who has a smoke pump and a flue gas analyser. CO2 ideally around 10.5%.
Initially, the problem has been oil droplets just being blown out of the nozzle or the oil valve not opening right in the pump - which threw us off course a little.
I have noticed that these BFP41 pumps can leak a bit - usually around the pressure adjustment screw - usually when I don't have one in stock - but turning the screw forwards and back gets them sealing again.
Best wishes and well done! I'll dodge the e-blows but I quite like these burners.....
Cheers John
Yes it needs setting up for definate, there is soot on the external flue grill already
Not sure whether to buy an oil pressure tester just to set the pump pressure, as the boiler was only serviced a couple of months ago. Or whether to leave it to a proffessional to do the full set up.
Just wondering if the other values would remain the same if they haven't been touched ??
Not sure whether to buy an oil pressure tester just to set the pump pressure, as the boiler was only serviced a couple of months ago. Or whether to leave it to a proffessional to do the full set up.
Just wondering if the other values would remain the same if they haven't been touched ??
You really need a pressure gauge (1/8 BSP) and a manifold to set things up - the pump is set at 10 bar at the factory which is too high for your burner. Plumbers merchants do the gauge and manifold for around £30.
The gauge screws (with ptfe tape) into the port marked 'P' on the pump front.
These burners are sensitive to the air door setting - just one number out of adjustment gives a soot reading of 3! Its only a FGA can really sort that one, but the pump pressure is very important too.
John
The gauge screws (with ptfe tape) into the port marked 'P' on the pump front.
These burners are sensitive to the air door setting - just one number out of adjustment gives a soot reading of 3! Its only a FGA can really sort that one, but the pump pressure is very important too.
John
Yes it needs setting up for definate, there is soot on the external flue grill already
Not sure whether to buy an oil pressure tester just to set the pump pressure, as the boiler was only serviced a couple of months ago. Or whether to leave it to a proffessional to do the full set up.
Just wondering if the other values would remain the same if they haven't been touched ??
Remember you put an old nozzle back in, these can vary in output by + / - 15% or it may have been a duff one so i would get it sorted as soon as poss as it wont take very long befroe your boiler is packed full of soot, messy job!
Certainly, for 6 quid it rounds off the job.
John
John
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
