thats what I thought but on the photo with all the wires out the right top ones are ainected to the kitchin and living room
help fitting 2 switch light switch
- Thread starter robin1983
- Start date
the one one thing I dont have is a multimeter
Can you rephrase that please? Don't make a lot of sense...
the one i am pointing to is the one that I know is conected to hallway, Kitchen and living room,
Ok, how do you know that? I'm not saying you're wrong. But why do you think that?
when I was trying diffrent possitions I connect the 2 red in the the same com, the red form upstares and the black wire in the l1 hole, i swiched on the fuse and the kichen light cam on , tured it off straight away as didnt seam right
I'm sure it probably did. 
Have you disconnected the old porch light? Did it come on when you wired the switch as we instructed you earlier?
If you have removed the old porch light, have you left it in a safe state?
I can't help thinking that red and black at the switch you said was for the old porch light isn't.
Have you disconnected the old porch light? Did it come on when you wired the switch as we instructed you earlier?
If you have removed the old porch light, have you left it in a safe state?
I can't help thinking that red and black at the switch you said was for the old porch light isn't.
the porch light was disconected
the porch light was disconected
How many cables were at the porch light?
How have you disconnected it?
How have you disconnected it?
3 , Red, black and Earth
Without a multimeter it's hard to confirm what's what.
I think the two cables coming out the switch box on the left should be disconnected, and put in 4 connector blocks so all 4 wires are completely separated.
Put connector blocks on the ends of ALL unused wires. Then see if the other rooms work.
I would then test the cable that is next to the landing one to see if it live and neutral, or live and switched live. I would trace where it goes. If I was then certain it was for the hall I would be inclined to put the red in the Com on it's own, and put the black in L1 on it's own. It all needs testing out first really.
I would make safe the old porch light cable with a connector block, just in case.
You should really use a multimeter to test the wiring out properly FIRST. You must make sure there are no exposed wires.
The tests should be done with the power completely OFF. Work safely.
Remember, black isn't necessarily neutral.
I think the two cables coming out the switch box on the left should be disconnected, and put in 4 connector blocks so all 4 wires are completely separated.
Put connector blocks on the ends of ALL unused wires. Then see if the other rooms work.
I would then test the cable that is next to the landing one to see if it live and neutral, or live and switched live. I would trace where it goes. If I was then certain it was for the hall I would be inclined to put the red in the Com on it's own, and put the black in L1 on it's own. It all needs testing out first really.
I would make safe the old porch light cable with a connector block, just in case.
You should really use a multimeter to test the wiring out properly FIRST. You must make sure there are no exposed wires.
The tests should be done with the power completely OFF. Work safely.
Remember, black isn't necessarily neutral.
Just like (I'm sure) you have equipped yourself with screwdrivers so that you can deal with screws, a hammer so that you can deal with nails, saws so that you can deal with cutting wood, and so on, if you want to do electrical work then a multimeter is just as essential.
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When you say you're sure the cable is connected to hall, living room, etc... are you saying that you have lost more than just the porch, landing and hallway lights?
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This is odd.I'm looking again at the piccy. The 3 core is stranded. The thicker looking of the T&E's looks stranded too. That suggests that SW is right, that the original cables run the landing light and the hall light. The solid core cable appears newer.
BUT, if this is the case, why have you lost continuity to the rest of the circuit?
That suggests there is a loop in and out of that switch.
You do need a MM before we can help further.
BUT, if this is the case, why have you lost continuity to the rest of the circuit?
That suggests there is a loop in and out of that switch.
You do need a MM before we can help further.
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