Help fitting new downlight converters

[CraigCos]

Hello All,

I'm bit of a newbie when it comes to electrics so please take it easy on me

I've had experience in changing ceiling roses to modern fittings around the house, and understand the basics, but I am learning as I go. I am currently trying to replace some old hideous lights in our bathroom. They are the old style spotlights (if you can call them that) which are bulky and really don't suit our modern bathroom.

They look something like this:

http://images.linnlive.com/97DE1640224DDD3FCEEB7153504569B6/85ee331b-93e8-4ea9-bd20-942a907e5e42.jpg

The first fitting is currently wired into a junction box in the attic, which then runs on to the second light. (Just the 2 lights - it's a small bathroom). These lights left a bigger hole than what's needed for modern spotlights, therefore I've purchased a converter to cover the hole as it seemed the easiest way to get a standard GU10 fitting in.

The new light fitting is a downlight converter which is exactly like this:
http://www.litecraft.co.uk/media/ca...ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/2/M20-HCBC_3.jpg

Except it's for a GU10 lampholder not a low voltage therefore no transformer necessary.

What I'm unsure of is how to connect the new fitting? I assume I just remove the existing light from the junction box but how would I wire in the new fitting? There is no cable provided with the new fitting, so I assume I would need to buy a short flex like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/All-White...pplies_Electrical_ET&var=&hash=item3a7af3738e

Would I be right in saying I need 3 core? I've not yet been in the attic but I am sure there will be earth present, even though the current fitting doesn't seem to be earthed. Is it just a case of wiring in the new fitting into the junction box in the same way that it's currently wired? And then running the earth from the junction box to the terminal on the new fitting's metal stirrup?

Would greatly appreciate any help/advice.

Thanks,

Craig

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

3 core heat resistant flex ideal for cable runs of downlights, as they can generate a lot of upward heat that burns the cables.
Even if the the fitting does not require an earth, still take this conductor to fitting and terminate in a connection block and keep continuity throughout the circuit to each fitting.
Sometimes there is room within the terminals of the the lamp holder to connect across each light using the daisy chain method, sometimes it is easier to use a junction, such as these http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Product...unction+box&gclid=COaxrsXI07UCFUaN3godQGEAIg.

Remember that as it is a bathroom, a moisture resistant fittings will be required to prevent moisture rising to the loft space and causing damage. But I have the feeling that by using a converter kit, it may not offer that protection.

 

[CraigCos]

Thanks for the reply PrenticeBoyofDerry. Seems I may have made a mistake in getting this particular converter kit then as moisture didn't even cross my mind. Will probably be best that I send these back as there is no mention of use within a bathroom. Am I right in saying I will be best with IP65 rated converters? I've found one labelled as a "shower converter" here just a little on the expensive side:

http://www.lampspecs.co.uk/Light-Fi...ht-Shower-Converter-IP65-240V-Chrome-50W-BELL

One of the lights is not directly above the shower, but close enough.

 

[doingitmeself]

Hello All,

The new light fitting is a downlight converter which is exactly like this:
http://www.litecraft.co.uk/media/ca...ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/2/M20-HCBC_3.jpg

I bought one of those from Screwfix a couple of weeks ago. It's a massive improvement on the old 1980's thing that I ripped out. In my case two lampholders were provided so that you could choose between 12v and 240v. Given that the SF one is steel but has no notion of an earth wire I went with the 12v option.

Agreed on the moisture though. Can you find a large enough IP65 downlighter that'll fill the hole?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am currently trying to replace some old hideous lights in our bathroom. They are the old style spotlights (if you can call them that) which are bulky and really don't suit our modern bathroom.

Do you really want small recessed spotlights?

There are loads of modern bathroom lights around, all of which will work better than what is, essentially, a lot of torches set into the ceiling. You'd need to look in proper lighting shops and websites though, not just the sheds.

These lights left a bigger hole than what's needed for modern spotlights, therefore I've purchased a converter to cover the hole as it seemed the easiest way to get a standard GU10 fitting in.

Those old ones would have been giving a larger beam than an MR16 bulb - if you go that route you'll probably need to increase the number of them. At which point you'll need to apply for Building Regulations approval before you start.

Filling in some or all of the holes and going to a non-recessed light(s) might be a lot less work.

Or if you really want recessed lights, make the holes bigger and put in something like this:



(Other makes and suppliers are available)

When you look up all you see is a thin white or metal ring and a disc of etched glass, so pretty minimalist. But being much larger than 2" diameter they will actually do a good job of lighting the room, and as they take plain fluorescent lamps they will be cheap to run.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Agreed on the moisture though.

And insulation issues if more holes are cut.

Can you find a large enough IP65 downlighter that'll fill the hole?

Bear in mind that IPxx refers to access and moisture penetration to the electrical connections, and there is no reason why an IP65 light should necessarily do anything to prevent water vapour getting through to the other side of the ceiling. As an extreme example (unrealistic, but it shows the point), you could take a light suitable for use on the helicopter deck of a destroyer, mount it in the boss of a cartwheel, and then mount that in a 4' hole in a ceiling. The light would still be IP<whatever>, but wouldn't stop water vapour getting through....