Help! Hive 2 Thermostat wiring to Logic Combi 30

[Zakir Pandor]

Thanks for your help in Advance
I have been given a Hive 2 full set up as a gift and would like some help in wiring it. The hive set up is for Heating & hot water but can this be used with a Combi system?
Also my boiler is currently wired to come on when I manually switch it on from the boiler as the previous thermostat stopped working!
Any help or advice is very much appreciated.
Attached are the pictures for both hive receiver and the boiler.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Well, you won't need the second channel - DHW - with your combi.

 

[Zakir Pandor]

Well, you won't need the second channel - DHW - with your combi.

Many thanks for that, one thing is I am no sure which is L supply/L return? Also to confirm the I treat HW off as common on the hive receiver?

 

[Taylortwocities]

With the boiler stat link removed, the terminal that you test as live (using your multimeter) is the live out to the Hive, the other will be the switched live (call for heat).
there are no controls for HW from the Hive. It will only control the heating. You've already been advised about this

Well, you won't need the second channel - DHW - with your combi.

 

[Zakir Pandor]

With the boiler stat link removed, the terminal that you test as live (using your multimeter) is the live out to the Hive, the other will be the switched live (call for heat).
there are no controls for HW from the Hive. It will only control the heating. You've already been advised about this

Well, you won't need the second channel - DHW - with your combi.

Many thanks for your help

 

[troyjones]

Im trying to do the exact same thing and just use the heating side of a Hive 2 heating and hot water with my Logic Combi 30, Just wired up Permanent Neutral, Permanent Live, and Heating NC. Thats all that was wired up on my Combi to the old honey well stat. The wire that goes to heating NC is the black wire that goes to one side of the room stat block.

I then set up the Hive and it seemed to work i had heat out the rad but it was on all the time untill i turned the fused spur off to shut it down, since then the boiler spur back on but no heat do i need to wire up something to heating on (NO)? Is that what i need to test with mutlimeter and see which one is call for heat?

 

[EFLImpudence]

You need to move the wire, assuming it's the right one, from NC (Normally Closed - connected when off) to NO (Normally Open - connected when on).

 

[troyjones]

Thanks very much for the quick responce EFLImpudence just to confirm, i need to keep everthing how it is at the boiler end i just need to move the black wire that i connected to the Hive receiver from PIN2 Heating off (NC) to PIN4 heating on (NO) instead?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes.

You said -

Im trying to do the exact same thing and just use the heating side of a Hive 2 heating and hot water with my Logic Combi 30, Just wired up Permanent Neutral, Permanent Live, and Heating NC. Thats all that was wired up on my Combi to the old honey well stat.

It would not have been "and heating NC" it would have been "and heating NO".

 

[troyjones]

Perfect all sorted thank very much for your advise

 

[adnanrana]

This worked for me.

 

[Taylortwocities]

It might work but it’s not correct.

You need green&yellow sleeving on those bare earth wires!

that white 2-core flex should be 3-core to include an earth (CPC).

 

[ericmark]

looking at @adnanrana pictures assuming twin channel it would seem the twin flex brown does nothing? Connected to heating N/C and live supply it may mean any off switch on boiler panel does not work, but that is clearly wired wrong even if it does work, no brown or green/yellow sleeving is nothing when it could mean way it is wired boiler will not switch off due to back feed.

It may be the boiler connects Line and the terminal with brown twin flex internal without any switches or fuses between the two, but still bad practice.