HELP:Replacing Bayonet fitting on an outside Lamp

jig

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I have just tried to replace an old bayonet fitting for a new brass one. I managed to get the old tired rusted on off to find the wiring (which is like stiff copper wiring very short and impossible for me to wire into the new bayonet.

How many wires should be there? I also noticed an exterior (which was screwed to the side of the fitting) a copper bare wire which I think is the earth but this is now damaged/worn.

Now from remains I can see to cores (copper?) are revealed but these are too small. So...

1) How can I safely extend these?Is it possible what do I need?
2) Which way round should they connect?
3) There are two lamps outside for the driveway the other has stopped working after/or as a result of the work that I have done so far, is this a problem?


Thanks in advance, need to try and sort this asap as need light for the drive stop other drivers knocking down my wall!

Cheers
Jig :(
 
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Unless you are very fond of the old lamps, you might do better to buy a new pair.

Does the old cable come straight out of the brickwork into the lamp, or is there some kind of junction box?

If you can lay your hands on a digital camera a few pics will always help us "see" the problem.

I will be away later but there's always someone who knows.
 
JohnD said:
Unless you are very fond of the old lamps, you might do better to buy a new pair.

Does the old cable come straight out of the brickwork into the lamp, or is there some kind of junction box?

When I say old they are probably only 5 years old, so not antique! The wire goes straight up the (inside) brick work and throught the stem of the lamp, and currently i can see two copper cores at the tip of the stem which is the bottom of the lamp where the fitting attaches.

There is no junction box, apart from in the garage where there is a plug (attahced to a timer) which goes in to a socket. the wire leads to a black box which has two wires coming out (one for each lamp?)
 
Ow, ow, ow! A plug and socket feeding a fixed lamp! You can put an FCU on there! With a 3A fuse!

If I understand you, there is a certain amount of length of cable inside the stem of the lamp, so if you had the lamp off, you could put a connector in there.

If your lamps are metal, then you do need to use the earth wire on the lamp body, I would do this in addition to the earth screw on your new lampholder.

The earth wire will be bare copper and you should sheath it in green-and-yellow except the bit in the terminals.

If the lampholder is a Bayonet fitting, it doesn't matter which terminal you put the red and the black on. If it is an edison screw, the "screw socket" should be black and the "tip" red.

I presume you are using compact fluorescents so the inside of the lamp won't be hot. Otherwise heat resisting cable would be better as it's enclosed.
 
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JohnD said:
Ow, ow, ow! A plug and socket feeding a fixed lamp! You can put an FCU on there! With a 3A fuse!

If I understand you, there is a certain amount of length of cable inside the stem of the lamp, so if you had the lamp off, you could put a connector in there.

If your lamps are metal, then you do need to use the earth wire on the lamp body, I would do this in addition to the earth screw on your new lampholder.

The earth wire will be bare copper and you should sheath it in green-and-yellow except the bit in the terminals.

If the lampholder is a Bayonet fitting, it doesn't matter which terminal you put the red and the black on. If it is an edison screw, the "screw socket" should be black and the "tip" red.

I presume you are using compact fluorescents so the inside of the lamp won't be hot. Otherwise heat resisting cable would be better as it's enclosed.

Hi John,

Whats an FCU? The plug has a fuse inside it which goes into the timer plug.

Lamps are metal. I am struggling as to how I can connect the new brass abyonet fitting as this will screw on to the stem but the expose wires are just at the tip. Plus if I could reach or pull on them so I have suffecient length to screw them into the bayonet fitting, whn I screw that on will that not break the wires/connections?

Thanks for your patience and apologies if I am not bewing clear enough, but your advice is greatly appreciated.

Jig
 
I was thinking you could take the lamps off the wall, and that would give you access to the length of cable inside the stems of the lamps, would that work? Then you could use a small connector block to add a short piece of cable that would reach up the stem of the lamp for you to attach the bulbholder. Have I envisaged it wrong?


An FCU is a fused connection unit.
 
JohnD said:
I was thinking you could take the lamps off the wall, and that would give you access to the length of cable inside the stems of the lamps, would that work? Then you could use a small connector block to add a short piece of cable that would reach up the stem of the lamp for you to attach the bulbholder. Have I envisaged it wrong?


An FCU is a fused connection unit.

I think your right I have to take the lamps off, the are attached to a small block of brick and sit on top, ie , marking the entrance to the driveway. I will try to take them off and see if I can add the connector.

Also im I trying to fin the bayonet incorrectly, do I just feed the wire into the two holes and screw the bayonet on?Im just concrened that that woudl cause the wires to twist and break?
 
That doesn't sound right. The lampholder should have an upper and a lower shell, probably held together with a screw-on ring, and a plastic part inside it with the terminals and screws. Until you fix the parts back together you should be able to turn the wires without stress.

If that doesn't work, fix the wires and bulbholder before you fasten the lamp to the wall, so you can turn the lamp body without twisting the wires.

Any chance of a pic?
 

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