Help with leaking isolation valve on CH pipe

[jso]

HELP! Day before Christmas Eve, and a leaking compression joint on an isolation valve that connects the feed pipe to a radiator. Carpet soaked, people coming...
I've tightened the joint as much as I dare and it hasn't stopped dripping. Maybe now overtightened?

I can't disassemble and try a new olive, because the isolation valve seems not to be working (or it does work and the drip is from water from the radiator side?

And I can't drain down the system as guests are from overseas, with little babies, and they need to be warm!

Is there a product (likely to be available before shops close on Christmas Eve) I can wrap around the fitting, or which will stem the drip, until I can get a plumber in after the hols, or tackle myself when my guests have all gone?

Most repair suggestions assume turning off the water first, which cant do in this situation!

 

[ianmcd]

post a pic of what is leaking

 

[just pumps]

You are sure that is where the water comes from not somewhere else then tracking to a low point

 

[dal5band]

Is this radiator necessary ? Turn radiator off at both ends, this will reduce the pressure and slow the drip so you can leave a pot under it. In fact did you turn the radiator off at both ends when testing ? Where is the leak - is it definately onthe radiator side of the valve ?

 

[jso]

Is this radiator necessary ? Turn radiator off at both ends, this will reduce the pressure and slow the drip so you can leave a pot under it. In fact did you turn the radiator off at both ends when testing ? Where is the leak - is it definitely on the radiator side of the valve ?

Yes, I did turn the radiator off, at both ends, but it didn't seem to make much difference. The radiator went cold, but it's one of those thermostat valves, and maybe it doesn't close off the connection completely. (Others of the same vintage have failed entirely.) I turned off the return valve also. The leak is definitely on the radiator side of the valve, and it's definitely the feed pipe. I'd hoped that with the radiator turned off, and the isolation valve closed, the only water that could leak out, or gush out if I tried to replace the olive, would be the small amount in the pipe (about 30cm worth) but it's continued to leak much more than that so I assume the isolation valve has failed.

 

[jso]

Is this radiator necessary ? Turn radiator off at both ends, this will reduce the pressure and slow the drip so you can leave a pot under it. In fact did you turn the radiator off at both ends when testing ? Where is the leak - is it definately onthe radiator side of the valve ?

Not much room for a "pot"...the pipe is about 2 cm above floor (carpet) level. The most I can put in is a shallow plastic container that fills quite quickly! Certainly would overflow overnight.

 

[jso]

You are sure that is where the water comes from not somewhere else then tracking to a low point

Yes.

 

[jso]

post a pic of what is leaking

Sorry, can't manage that at the moment. Its definitely leaking from the nut on the radiator side of the isolation valve.

 

[Madrab]

If it is definitely the nut on the radiator tail (after the valve towards the radiator) then if you close off both ends of the rad then it will eventually stop, unfortunately you have a full radiator to empty a bit first tho. If you crack that leaking nut open and open the bleed valve you should be able to empty the rad, then you can check what the condition of the olive is, as that's the water seal.

Just to check the TRV, take the head off the valve and push down the pin on the valve and see if it moves, if it does then the valve's ok. Does the TRV head have a frost symbol then a 0? If so then you if you twist the head from 5 to 0 you should see the actuator in the centre move down, if it does that it should shut the rad off and it can be drained.

 

[jso]

If it is definitely the nut on the radiator tail (after the valve towards the radiator) then if you close off both ends of the rad then it will eventually stop, unfortunately you have a full radiator to empty a bit first tho. If you crack that leaking nut open and open the bleed valve you should be able to empty the rad, then you can check what the condition of the olive is, as that's the water seal.

Just to check the TRV, take the head off the valve and push down the pin on the valve and see if it moves, if it does then the valve's ok. Does the TRV head have a frost symbol then a 0? If so then you if you twist the head from 5 to 0 you should see the actuator in the centre move down, if it does that it should shut the rad off and it can be drained.

That's really helpful. Thank you!

 

[jso]

If it is definitely the nut on the radiator tail (after the valve towards the radiator) then if you close off both ends of the rad then it will eventually stop, unfortunately you have a full radiator to empty a bit first tho. If you crack that leaking nut open and open the bleed valve you should be able to empty the rad, then you can check what the condition of the olive is, as that's the water seal.

Just to check the TRV, take the head off the valve and push down the pin on the valve and see if it moves, if it does then the valve's ok. Does the TRV head have a frost symbol then a 0? If so then you if you twist the head from 5 to 0 you should see the actuator in the centre move down, if it does that it should shut the rad off and it can be drained.

Although...if the TRV is working, and I close off the other end, I shouldn't need to empty the radiator as there'd only be the water in the pipe between the TRV and the leaking nut on the isolator valve? or have I misunderstood something? Any way, I'll look at it in the morning! (And try a big flat tray from the greenhouse to catch the overnight drips, whilst running a dehumidifier to try to dry out the carpet)

 

[garyo]

You seem to have a lot of valves on this rad! Based on my understanding of your layout, I'd close both valves so that there's just the small amount of water in the pipe to drip, then take the nut off and get a few turns of ptfe or plumbers paste over the olive (get it right in between the olive and iso valve)

Replacing the olive may not be quick/easy if you've overtightened it, so can be left for another day.

 

[dilalio]

I believe wires are crossed here...

Sounds like the OP has a rad that has isolators (ballofix presumably) on the feed and return pipes to the rad. And it is one of these that is leaking?

OP is this correct?

If your CH system is sealed, this will stop eventually but your boiler will likely lock out.

If your CH system is gravity fed, it will continue to leak.

People coming or not, you need to get this sorted.

We can walk you through the easiest process if you can provide some photos, else it's a stab in the dark.

 

[jso]

I believe wires are crossed here...

Sounds like the OP has a rad that has isolators (ballofix presumably) on the feed and return pipes to the rad. And it is one of these that is leaking?

OP is this correct?

If your CH system is sealed, this will stop eventually but your boiler will likely lock out.

If your CH system is gravity fed, it will continue to leak.

People coming or not, you need to get this sorted.

We can walk you through the easiest process if you can provide some photos, else it's a stab in the dark.

Yes. isolators on the feed and return. End of the isolator nearest to the radiator on the feed pipe is leaking.
Gravity fed system.
TRV on the feed end. Normal valve on the other end.

I'll try to do photos. Thanks for all advice received so far.

 

[garyo]

A photo would be worth its weight in frakincense. As you've said, you should be able to turn off both valves to buy yourself some time - presuming you're happy for that rad to be out of action while the guests are visiting. Then you'll just lose the water in the short run of pipe from the iso valve to the rad balance valve.