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Help with lintel fitting

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12 Jul 2025
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Situation - 1980 house with timber frame door and internal block concrete lintel.
Door has moved and outside skin of 3 courses of bricks only have shifted (some fell out)
Seems the bricks were just being supported by the door - though roof and rest is supported by concrete lintel inside.
There is the garage roof above the doorway entrance and so this 3 courses layer of bricks is just a small cosmetic section above the doorway and is 50% COVERED usually by the soffits and guttering (which I’ve removed for now).
I just don’t like the idea of rebuilding onto the top of wooden doorframe again as people slamming the door will no doubt crack the 3 courses again and really small L lintel should be put in place.

My question is this:
How can i best fit say a catnic type 1500mm single leaf lintel and then rebuild the 3 courses of brick ? The new leaf lintel is perhaps overkill but would prefer it to be in place so I can get door replaced later if required without disturbing anything.

Current plan is this:
Remove 3 courses of bricks and clean them up
Remove the mortar carefully from each side of the doorway from the bricks so I can insert in the L shape single leaf lintel and then mortar it in
Put the DPC liner over the leaf and have a wrap hole in 3 courses
Insert insulation into the small cavity between 3 course outer bricks (i am rebuilding) and inside
Rebuild 3 courses on top of L single leaf lintel
Fill between door top and new lintel

I may have very much overlooked something - my main concern is how to get the L shaped lintel into the space given its wider than the door of course
Also how much overhang should it have for a 120cm doorway on each side ?
Anything else I should be aware of that might trip mine up ?

Thanks for all help.
 
Pretty much exactly as you say, the fact that the soffit is off will make it easier. 150mm ish bearing each side.

you’d need to fix the cavity tray against inner skin and have a slope to weep holes, although whether one’s actually needed if there wasn’t one before and you haven’t had any issues…
 
Pretty much exactly as you say, the fact that the soffit is off will make it easier. 150mm ish bearing each side.

you’d need to fix the cavity tray against inner skin and have a slope to weep holes, although whether one’s actually needed if there wasn’t one before and you haven’t had any issues…
There want one before so likely overkill - will reflect (as door or protected by overhand and walls each side)
15cm bearing is what I’ve ordered so that’s good.
Any helpful tips on how remove the mortar each side from the “main” walls to insert the lintel ? That’s the part I can’t yet see my path clearly.
I’ve fitted UPVC windows, bathrooms and all sorts before - never lintels though.
Im just wondering on best way to remove the 15cm each side so I can get lintel L shape in as its an L !
Will I need to remove a whole brick and refit on each side or is there another recommended way to be able slide lintel in ?

Sorry this sounds very basic but I just want avoid a real mess and little bit of advice helps a lot I find on such things when we dont do them often (ever).
 
Once you’ve got the 3 courses out, just take the extra few out for the bearing at each end. Half brick bearing is gonna be fine for this, rather than try and go beyond to get 150mm. Might just lift out, or gently with a bolster, lump hammer, SDS. Or stitch drill out… don’t think you’ll struggle. Also an old sacrificial wood chisel can be handy for breaking mortar off bricks etc

Bear in mind also that the new lintel due to its thickness won’t need much mortar bed thickness at the bearings, or the new 3 courses will sit too high for the existing coursing.
 
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