help with worcester combi

clean the system and fit magna clean or spirovent on the return pipe to the boiler.Then you can check the workings of aav or pump.personally i always recommend magna clean on any new installs just to protect the boiler,the water ways are very prone to blockingif the system has not been cleansed properly and also the contamination does alot of damage to the pump,divertor valve,as well the heat exchangers
 
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ok thanks fellas. i will post back after i have cleaned the system.
 
Further to my last post, how long should i leave the sludge remover in the system and what is the best way to add it to the system?
thanks
 
Duration differs, follow the instructions.
Filling depends on your system, hard to say from a distance; in is in.
 
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Update:
Ihave added the sludge remover to the system and topped the system back up. Just something i have noticed about when i attempt to run the system is that when the system is cold it takes a few goes for the system to stay on but then it runs fine. Also, it initally ignites the pilot flames but the sparks keep on sparking even when the pilot is lit and this happens twice then the main burners try and ignite then there is a clink and the system locks out. As i said this hapens about three or four times and then it is fine.
 
Has anybody got any ideas why the pilot light tries to keep igniting when it is already lit and then it clunks and goes out?
 
i assume bingo is referring to the potential of reversed polarity this can cause intermittant problems with the flame retification process
 
thanks gaspro.
the only people who have messed with the boiler are the so called "engineers" from worcester.
Are you refering to the way the boiler has been connected to the fuse spur or the internal wiring of the boiler?
 
there is a fault with this model that requires the circuit board to be replaced or it can be wedged in a certain spot to make the boiler work perfectly for another few years,and its free. ;)
i wedged mine with a piece of wood :LOL:
(yes i am gas safe reg'd!!!)
the boards must break down over time.this sometimes causes the boiler to fire without the pump running and hence you get high pressure and blow off from prv.

It seems these cheaper versions of worcesters combi range have turned out to be better built and more reliable than the cdi range!!!!!! glad i installed a i into my own house. I must have installed 300+ cdi models and after about 5 years they start to need new fans,pressure vessels,div valves and air vents!!!!! the 100+ i versions barely need anything doing to them!!

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thanks evolu.
could you elaborate a bit more on how to remedy the problem?

the boards must break down over time.this sometimes causes the boiler to fire without the pump running and hence you get high pressure and blow off from prv.

in my particular case the boilers pump seems to be running when the boiler is switched on and trying to ignite, the issue i am referring to is that the igniter keeps on trying to ignite even when the pilot burners are lit. It tries this about 4 times and then just as the main burners try to kick in there is a "clunk" and the boiler locks out.
As i said previous this is very intermittment but mostly occurs when the boiler is cold and has not been running for a while but once its lit it stays lit.
thanks
 
there is a fault with this model that requires the circuit board to be replaced

by the way there is a great little place not far from where i live where they test and repair circuit boards.
a couple of yesars ago the circuit board went on my sisters boiler(italian make) and for a new circuit bord it would have been £350. Took knackered circuit board to place by me and it was tested and repaired for £1.50 yes thats one pound fifty! :D
 
hi there,
if your pump and fan are running and the main burner is ignited but the sparking keeps going then its a flame rectification issue.theres 2 probes(sparkers)they ignite the burner on low gas rate,there is also another probe thats at the back of the gas burner im sure,a flame sensor.when this senses that the gas is lit then it tells the circuit boards to stop sparking as the burner is lit,then it goes to full gas rate.
the clunking your hearing when it goes to lockout is the gas valve shutting.theres 2 safety devices built onto the gas valve.

the ignitor wires and rec sensor/probe go onto the circuit board


try when its lit but still sparking tapping the plastic fascia with the 3 screws underneath..

mine used to spark,light,then immediatly go out but the fan and pump continued to run as if it was lit.



thanks evolu.
could you elaborate a bit more on how to remedy the problem?

the boards must break down over time.this sometimes causes the boiler to fire without the pump running and hence you get high pressure and blow off from prv.

in my particular case the boilers pump seems to be running when the boiler is switched on and trying to ignite, the issue i am referring to is that the igniter keeps on trying to ignite even when the pilot burners are lit. It tries this about 4 times and then just as the main burners try to kick in there is a "clunk" and the boiler locks out.
As i said previous this is very intermittment but mostly occurs when the boiler is cold and has not been running for a while but once its lit it stays lit.
thanks
 

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