Hep20 Heating Pipes (10mm)

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Hi, my house has 10mm Hepworth plastic ch piping. Broadly, it has not been a problem over the 23 years it's been installed, however...

I have had cases where there is a tiny leak where the pipe is inserted into the valve (instinctively, I think mainly the TRV end). I've just laid a new wood floor, so now is the time to sort it for the foreseeable. So questions:

1. Can I replace the olives and ptfe without draining down the system? (because I don't think there's a tighten left on the fitting).

2. If no, how do I choose which rad to use to drain the system?

3. Do those freezing kits actually work?

Any other advice welcome. Ta.

CG
 
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1. Best not to - if you do, wear a mac
2. Somewhere lower on the system. Close the other rads off and leave the faulty one open (others may disagree but it’ll save a good amout of inhibator if you dont have any to hand..) open bleed on the faulty rad when draining to release vacuum
3. Never used one after a mate tried it and flooded some old dears bathroom (but to be fair he was a bit ****!)


Make your fix and open all rads - wait a min - then fill up and bleed all rads. Starting at bottom and working your way up.

Edit: may take a little while to drain down - be patient...
 
If play on the pipe you could just cut it and pull it up 1/2” with new olives, also as you say it’s only on the trv side could be it is 15mm valves with a collapsible olive down to 10mm
 
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Ok - to clarify my post. Whilst on the trv side you may not have to drain down if you do this sort of thing regularly - i’d suggest for someone with no experience - and semi-likely/unfortunate enough to displace/make matters worse - it’s probably best not to have the added pressure (excise the pun...) of 1.5 bar, should the worst happen and something pops.

I’d still probably take away the pressure - better safe than... drenched.
 

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