Hep20 looks crap

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29 Oct 2009
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Newcastle upon Tyne
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Hi,

Got home last night and i think i must have the worst plumbers in the world fitting my central heating system!!!!

I have a couple of questions if any one would be so kind to give me an answer

1) With the Hep20 system can you join copper to it for visible area's as i have 2 horrendous grey 15mm plastic pipes to my nice new lovley expensive towel rail and to top it they're not even straight, there so tight to the skirting board it looks ****.

2) They've drilled 25mm holes through my laminate floor in one of my bedrooms with the 10mm plastic pipe to the rad that looks really bad (I said they could lift the laminate but they did'nt. Can you buy those collar disc things for the Hep20 10mm pipe that finish the hole in the floor so you can't see the oversized hole.

3) Is it possible to get the installation checked by an independant compay like what building regs do for builders work.

4) Is it o.k to just notch out the top of the floor joist to run the pipes or should they go through centre of joists.

5) Is it also acceptable to use a screw driver to lift floor boards as i pulled back my carpets to see nice split floor boards every where and covered with pry dents from the srew driver. I've taken pictures of all this handy work and some pictures under the floor

6) I recently had my house re-wired and in some places the plumbers have ran the Hep20 pipe directly above the electric wires is this acceptable

Thanks
 
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1) With the Hep20 system can you join copper to it for visible area's as i have 2 horrendous grey 15mm plastic pipes to my nice new lovley expensive towel rail and to top it they're not even straight, there so tight to the skirting board it looks s**t.

1 never use it where it shows yes you can join it to copper

2) They've drilled 25mm holes through my laminate floor in one of my bedrooms with the 10mm plastic pipe to the rad that looks really bad (I said they could lift the laminate but they did'nt. Can you buy those collar disc things for the Hep20 10mm pipe that finish the hole in the floor so you can't see the oversized hole.

2 yes BES
ACCESSORIES - HEP2O®

Escutcheon Plates


Part No. Description Unit Price Qty
15072 10 mm £0.27
15073 15 mm £0.27



3) Is it possible to get the installation checked by an independant compay like what building regs do for builders work.

3 yes but you will have to pay and claim it back off the installer if he is found wanting

4) Is it o.k to just notch out the top of the floor joist to run the pipes or should they go through centre of joists.

4 yes within reason

5) Is it also acceptable to use a screw driver to lift floor boards as i pulled back my carpets to see nice split floor boards every where and covered with pry dents from the srew driver. I've taken pictures of all this handy work and some pictures under the floor

5 no that smacks of a clown

6) I recently had my house re-wired and in some places the plumbers have ran the Hep20 pipe directly above the electric wires is this acceptable

6 should be ok insulate them if your worried

that was a long "couple" of questions ;)
 
sounds like a bunch of cowboys!

to try to answer some of your concerns

floor boards drill bit used should be just over the diameter of the pipe but only a few mm
screwdrivers should not have used to lift them we use cold chisels & pry bars to lift them but yes sometimes they do split but rarely
hep2o pipe is ok but the fittings have been known to seperate from pipes as the grip rings fail
no plastic pipe should be on the surface, as you say it looks crap and very unproffessional.

looks like kevplumb has covered the rest.
 
Pretty much everything has been covered already, but just to add a litte re: notching...

You may notch a joist provided that the joist is not less than 100mm in depth, the notch depth is not more than 1/8 of the total depth, and the notch is between 7% and 25% of the unsupported span of the joist.

If I'm using Hep2o, I would normally drill the joists where possible and feed through, as it allows pipe insulation to be added and keeps the pipes out of the way of anybody cutting the floors in future. There is nothing wrong with using it but as you say the grey is very unsightly above floors, and I would use copper above the floors. However there are no regulations to say that it can't be used where it can be seen and this is presumably what was quoted for.

When drilling you must drill through half way down the depth of the joist. The maximum diameter of the hole is 25% of the depth of the joist and the drilled holes must be between 25% and 40% of the unsupported span of the joist.

Hope this helps
 
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...The maximum diameter of the hole is 25% of the depth of the joist and the drilled holes must be between 25% and 40% of the unsupported span of the joist.

The holes mush have a minimum of 3 times the diameter between them, or 4 times the size heart to heart.
 
Sorry not read it all but plastic equals lazy and diy cheap and cheerful for those recently qualified heating should be done in copper for proper job
 
I'm going to take a wild stab in the dark. The installers you've selected- were they perhaps the cheapest quote you recieved or did they advertise an all in one package in the paper?
Companies that tend to charge a little more for a quality installation can only do so by maintaining their reputation for such.
 

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