Hep2O under suspended floor

[Tom_Sauce]

Hi all,

Im looking to fit a new vertical radiator in the kitchen.

Im looking to run some 15mm Hep20 under the suspended floor. I plan on doing it like so:

• Use a 10mm to 15mm coupler to attach the Copper 10mm to the 15mm Hep2O - this is on show above the floorboards but will be hidden by a new unit
• Take the Hep2O under the floorboards using the 10mm - 15mm couples and some angle joints if needed and then using some angle connectors bring the hep2o piping through 50mm from the wall (Drill a 20mm hole through floorboard and joist)

Does this sound a suitable method? My main questions are as follows:

1. Can the Hep2O pipe just lay on the floor underneath the suspended floor? Or will it need to be fixed somehow? The floorboards run the entire length of the kitchen and are nailed in so removing them is a pain.
2. Will the pipe need to be insulated?
3. What about rodents? Ive notice that I have mains cables running under the floor and they are not protected. We had a small issue with mice years ago but this has been solved (Touch wood)
4. Do I just sack the hep2O off and get a plumber in to do it in copper? - money is very tight at the moment!

Thanks for the help!

TS

 

[dilalio]

If you can feed a length of copper under the floor to where it needs to be, I would do that. Might end up being easier than trying to feed plastic in.. likely there'll be sleeper walls if span is long enough and they will prove an obstacle... With copper, you can slightly bend it and rotate it so you can jump over any sleeper walls.

 

[Tom_Sauce]

Thanks for that Dilalio - The sleeper walls have gaps in so ive managed to thread the pipe through last night as a trial run. My issue is really if it can just be left on the floor

 

[oldbutnotdead]

You really should insulate it - you'll save energy as well as reduce the risk of freezing. If you're lucky you'll be able to push the insulation onto the pipe while it's in place (you may need a friend to bounce the other end of the pipe up and down to get past dwarf walls etc).
Not ideal leaving it on the ground but not the end of the world either.
If your plans allow, leave your access holes available for any future maintenance needs.

 

[Tom_Sauce]

Thanks oldbutnotdead

It shouldnt be a issue to get most of the pipe insulated.

Future maintenance is an issue because the floor will be tiled

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Thanks oldbutnotdead

It shouldnt be a issue to get most of the pipe insulated.

Future maintenance is an issue because the floor will be tiled

Arr. Take a few pics of where the hole in the floor is and make sure you keep a few spare tiles. And make sure the pipework is filled and working properly with no leaks before you tile the floor. Especially pay attention to the pushfit couplers- use inserts, ensure that pipes are pushed completely into the fittings and any locking rings or tabs or whatever are engaged properly.

 

[Tom_Sauce]

Good advice thanks - I plan on letting the system run for a couple of weeks before I fix the floorboards down and tile over. Should hopefully be no issues!

 

[dilalio]

Why are you piping the rad in 10mm?
If the feed pipes are 15mm just go into the rad with that and use copper out of the floor. Look much better and better flow rate.

 

[Tom_Sauce]

Why are you piping the rad in 10mm?
If the feed pipes are 15mm just go into the rad with that and use copper out of the floor. Look much better and better flow rate.

The current pipes into the old radiator that I am replacing are 10mm and are above the skirts, they come down from the ceiling the other side of the room and then follow the skirts to the old horizontal rad. Im going to cut them where ther are bent 90 deg near the floor and then using the 10mm to 15mm coupler going to run the 15mm Hep2O under the floor to the new position of the vertical rad.

Hope that makes sense

 

[Mottie]

I have Hep2O on my lounge radiator - the Hep2O goes straight into the rad. Was a doddle to fit as I could route it anyway I wanted and there are no joins under the floor. Before connecting it up I just slid the pipe insulation over it. Don't forget to use inserts.

 

[kidgreen61]

I would try to do it in copper, I am very wary of plastic where vermin can get at it.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I would try to do it in copper, I am very wary of plastic where vermin can get at it.

Much better to keep the vermin out rather than engineering round them

 

[Tom_Sauce]

Vermin was a concern, we have had mice in the past but this was over 5 years ago with nothing since.

Lifting floorboards up I can also see cable so if we did have mice that would also be chewed through too!

TBH - where can't mice get in nowadays!

 

[dilalio]

The current pipes into the old radiator that I am replacing are 10mm and are above the skirts, they come down from the ceiling the other side of the room and then follow the skirts to the old horizontal rad. Im going to cut them where ther are bent 90 deg near the floor and then using the 10mm to 15mm coupler going to run the 15mm Hep2O under the floor to the new position of the vertical rad.

Hope that makes sense

I still wouldn't connect up to a rad in 10mm, if I don't have to, which you don't.
Especially a vertical rad.
And make sure you find out if it is directional, has a baffle and if it needs to be piped to flow and return a certain way.

 

[dilalio]

Vermin was a concern, we have had mice in the past but this was over 5 years ago with nothing since.

Lifting floorboards up I can also see cable so if we did have mice that would also be chewed through too!

TBH - where can't mice get in nowadays!

Mice won't chew through cable in search of water... They will through pipes... I've seen it many times