15mm hep2o to radiator

[Louis.]

Hi all,

I have some exposed 15mm copper pipework running from the ceiling down the porch wall to a radiator on the other side. This has a soldered 90degree join which is leaking.

I'm planning on removing this copper pipe and burying some 15mm hep2o within the stud wall and then bringing it out behind the radiator. I can't seem to find any wall outlets which are for 15mm pipework.

Would I be better running the copper directly into the stud wall then using a hep2o fitting within? The copper routing is currently very ugly, so changing it to plastic wont be worse.

Cheers

 

[terryplumb]

Why not use copper pipe and soldered fittings within the stud wall ?

 

[Louis.]

Why not use copper pipe and soldered fittings within the stud wall ?

Because I want to use plastic pipe and the soldered copper joint has leaked.

 

[oldbuffer]

1. What do you mean by a "wall outlet"? If its a wall plate elbow, then as far as I'm aware no one does them in plastic. (Happy to be corrected).
2. I see no reason why you can't use a normal plastic elbow (subject to 3. below), but you would need to break into the wall in 3 or 4 points to fit clips.
3. Its generally bad practice to fit push fit fittings in inaccessible places. Same really goes for compression. Sometimes there is little choice, in which case it is advisable to wet pressure test before making inaccessible.
4. You could use a wall plate elbow, but:
4.1 Don't forget to use inserts in the plastic pipe. If using JG Speedfit, use the inserts WITHOUT the extra O rings, the superseal inserts are too long.
4.2 Use copper, not brass, olives in the compression fittings.
4.3 You can use a 1/2" male x 15mm compression "iron" (they are made of brass) to get onto the plastic from the outlet side of the wall plate elbow. Check there is sufficient depth in the wall.
5. Soldered copper remains, in my opinion, the best bet.

 

[Louis.]

1. What do you mean by a "wall outlet"? If its a wall plate elbow, then as far as I'm aware no one does them in plastic. (Happy to be corrected).
2. I see no reason why you can't use a normal plastic elbow (subject to 3. below), but you would need to break into the wall in 3 or 4 points to fit clips.
3. Its generally bad practice to fit push fit fittings in inaccessible places. Same really goes for compression. Sometimes there is little choice, in which case it is advisable to wet pressure test before making inaccessible.
4. You could use a wall plate elbow, but:
4.1 Don't forget to use inserts in the plastic pipe. If using JG Speedfit, use the inserts WITHOUT the extra O rings, the superseal inserts are too long.
4.2 Use copper, not brass, olives in the compression fittings.
4.3 You can use a 1/2" male x 15mm compression "iron" (they are made of brass) to get onto the plastic from the outlet side of the wall plate elbow. Check there is sufficient depth in the wall.
5. Soldered copper remains, in my opinion, the best bet.

Like this - https://www.wickes.co.uk/John-Guest-Speedfit-JG-ROP-Radiator-Outlet-Plate---10mm/p/117393

Plan was to make connection under the floor upstairs, feed cables down the stud wall and out through a outlet plate.

 

[Exedon]

The outlet plate you have linked is for 10mm pipes typically used on new build drop pipe systems.
Think you would struggle to modify for 2 - 15mm pipes

 

[jeff the gasman]

Use 10mm plastic and balance the system to suit the resistance!

 

[Madrab]

Those outlet plates are only for 10mm as 10mm plastic pipe is a lot more flexible then 15mm, it isn't considered flexible enough to exit a wall and run to the rads like 10mm would be.

 

[cdbe]

I use 15mm plastic in the wall, and then reduce to 10mm to feed the rads, I chase a bit of plaster out behind the rad to form a recess where the angle reducers live - I don't use plates - you can't see behind the rad.