HETAS log burner smoking in bedroom

[Corgigrouch GTi]

Various researchers have proved from forensic examination of fire scenes that many roof fires are started by chimney brick or stone work being above the ignition point of the materials of the roof.

But you haven't stated the other factors that have a bearing on such fires. Such as the type and design of the liner used, if any. Many thatched properties in the UK still have no form of liner and given the age of most thatched cottages, if the mortar joints are porous or not.

I shall leave it there as you are determined to prove yourself to be a bit of a buffoon and will let the others decide if you actually know what you are on or if you are simply a Google warrior

 

[Doggit]

There was another post on here recently where by the liner was obviously pushing up against the front of the chimney breast, and the temperature of the brick reached 100c, so whereas a chimney in a thatched roof was originally designed to take the flue gasses out, if the liner is pressed up against the chimney, then the hot gasses are getting concentrated in a smaller space. I can see the value of putting in a liner on a normal flue, and from firebrands comments, I can definitely see the extra safeguards required where there is extremely flammable material in a thatched roof.

I'm going to support Firebrand here Bernard, and suggest this conversation has gone far enough.

 

[ecswtrav]

Finally had hetas involved and fire installer returned today with a sweep. Swept the chimney and reinstalled the liner and stove again. Same problem. Smell and minor smoke in bedroom above....although not visible really until you put a torch on and look directly in front of light beam. So hoping hetas will now come investigate before I start bricking up the breast and climbing on roof to fit a brick vent. Very frustrating but totally puzzled now and disappointed. 9m of insulation will be too heavy for the hanging cowl method apparently so we can't try that. Just wondered if anyone had any other thoughts? Maybe it's steam I'm seeing and smelling ? So not potentially harmful?

 

[FiremanT]

If the liner is sound (obviously should be),and annular is sealed top and bottom, and it is not being sucked down via a neighbouring pot, then you CANNOT be getting POCs from your burner into the room. I assume the HEATAS guys have said this as well? You have to be heating up/burning something already in chimney.

Has a camera been sent down?

 

[Doggit]

You could try vermiculite, but there's no guarantee that the liner still won't end up touching the chimney in the bedroom. Did they sweep the bedroom chimney, as well as the living room one.

Obviously, the liner **edit insulation ** is a better method, but they could vermiculite the lower half, and just line the upper part where it might be touching the upper part of the bedroom chimney. You might need to take off the chimney pot, and put a plate and a clamp to make a more secure fixing for the liner, and then put the chimney pot back on, and then cut the straps off of the cowel, as the hanging part can't be used anymore.

Did they take any infra red readings in in the bedroom chimney.

 

[Steelmasons]

You could try vermiculite, but there's no guarantee that the liner still won't end up touching the chimney in the bedroom. Did they sweep the bedroom chimney, as well as the living room one.

Obviously, the liner is a better method, but they could vermiculite the lower half, and just line the upper part where it might be touching the upper part of the bedroom chimney. You might need to take off the chimney pot, and put a plate and a clamp to make a more secure fixing for the liner, and then put the chimney pot back on, and then cut the straps off of the cowel, as the hanging part can't be used anymore.

Did they take any infra red readings in in the bedroom chimney.

If the chimney has been lined then a plate would have been fitted.

 

[Doggit]

Sorry steel, I left out the word liner INSULATION, but the plate would only have been fitted if the chimney pot was off, so I suspect there's not plate and clamp there.

 

[Steelmasons]

The plate/clamp being one of the same..
I would take a bet that the liner wasn't removed and refitted.
The liner would have been fitted inclusive of plate.

 

[Doggit]

He was given a new liner by the manufacturers, and that's been fitted - okay, supposidly, and a second time as well. If they haven't taken the chimney pot off, then where do you reckon the plate and clamp have been fitted. I suspect there isn't one, hence it's just hanging from the chimney cowel, and that's why they can't fit liner insulation.

 

[Steelmasons]

Considering we have no photos of this install then consider the OP an attention seeker.

 

[Steelmasons]

Hey Doggit , have you any experience of lining chimney flues?

 

[Doggit]

Yes, I've done 2 now.

 

[Steelmasons]

Yes, I've done 2 now.

What appliances.

 

[Steelmasons]

they could vermiculite the lower half, and just line the upper part where it might be touching the upper part of the bedroom chimney.

Can you explain how this can be done?? How would the annular space be sealed between liner and chimney should only the "upper part" of chimney flue be lined?
Are you qualified to be giving advise on such matters?

 

[Doggit]

The general consensus here, is that it's not a "sealing" issue, rather the hot liner sitting up against the wall between the living room and the bedroom chimney sending heat through the wall and warming up the unswept bedroom chimney. If we're right, then if the liner is insulated on it's upper section, then the problem should go. We know that there isn't any lining currently fitted, and the OP has been told that an insulated liner can't be fitted as the hanging chimney cowel won't support the extra weight, so apart from sweeping the bedroom chimney, it needs a solution to protect the bedroom chimney from heat transference.