- Joined
- 8 Jun 2019
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
Hi Guys
I would be very grateful if anyone can help me with my issues. Perhaps not the personal issues but maybe my Hive wiring issues
I'm not too bad with wiring and have tried to install the Hive hub/receiver and thermostat myself. My current system is a Megaflow/Worchester boiler with a Honeywell controller and thermostat. Everything works as it should and have no issues and if need be I could re-wire everything back as was before.
My current issues is that the boiler won't fire up when Hive calls for the heating, I can see the thermostat is saying the heating is on. And the receiver with the heating green light on but the boiler does not fire up. The hot water works all fine on schedule and on boost with boiler firing up.
I suspect it is the wiring when I replaced the controller that I have got wrong and would really appreciate some help. Please note the original wires used were 4 core so a lot of redundant grey wires.
Firstly my boiler room looks like this.
Original Honey Controller below. I didn't label the wires when I took the picture but labeled if before I took it apart.
Honeywell Controller wiring diagram
Hive Wiring diagram for Dual Receiver
My current wiring with Hive Controller
You can see the wires that go to the original thermostat (through) the wall to a nearby location and this was how it looked before I replaced it with the Hive thermostat
From left to right I installed Neutral & Live. There was no wires on the original Honeywell controller for pin 1(HW Off) and 2(CH Off) so it was left on Hive.
I connected HW On onto 3. I then connected CH On onto 4.
When I went to disconnect the original thermostat I found that 4 was from the thermostat. The other wire went to N. So I disconnected both of these. The result is the picture of the Hive controller above.
I suspect the issue is that nothing is connected to 4? Do I need some link wire? Or does an extra wire need to be run from 4 to the junction box? I think how it works at my house is that there is a large junction box which is protected by a 3A, this connects everything together from the boiler/valve and controller. You can see the white junction box bottom left by the 3 port valve on my boiler room picture.
Amy help appreciated! I can obviously hire a tradesman (and happy to pay) but I would rather learn how things work and should work in my house.
Thanks Guys
I would be very grateful if anyone can help me with my issues. Perhaps not the personal issues but maybe my Hive wiring issues
I'm not too bad with wiring and have tried to install the Hive hub/receiver and thermostat myself. My current system is a Megaflow/Worchester boiler with a Honeywell controller and thermostat. Everything works as it should and have no issues and if need be I could re-wire everything back as was before.
My current issues is that the boiler won't fire up when Hive calls for the heating, I can see the thermostat is saying the heating is on. And the receiver with the heating green light on but the boiler does not fire up. The hot water works all fine on schedule and on boost with boiler firing up.
I suspect it is the wiring when I replaced the controller that I have got wrong and would really appreciate some help. Please note the original wires used were 4 core so a lot of redundant grey wires.
Firstly my boiler room looks like this.
Original Honey Controller below. I didn't label the wires when I took the picture but labeled if before I took it apart.
Honeywell Controller wiring diagram
Hive Wiring diagram for Dual Receiver
My current wiring with Hive Controller
You can see the wires that go to the original thermostat (through) the wall to a nearby location and this was how it looked before I replaced it with the Hive thermostat
From left to right I installed Neutral & Live. There was no wires on the original Honeywell controller for pin 1(HW Off) and 2(CH Off) so it was left on Hive.
I connected HW On onto 3. I then connected CH On onto 4.
When I went to disconnect the original thermostat I found that 4 was from the thermostat. The other wire went to N. So I disconnected both of these. The result is the picture of the Hive controller above.
I suspect the issue is that nothing is connected to 4? Do I need some link wire? Or does an extra wire need to be run from 4 to the junction box? I think how it works at my house is that there is a large junction box which is protected by a 3A, this connects everything together from the boiler/valve and controller. You can see the white junction box bottom left by the 3 port valve on my boiler room picture.
Amy help appreciated! I can obviously hire a tradesman (and happy to pay) but I would rather learn how things work and should work in my house.
Thanks Guys