Hive Heating Dual Channel & Vaillant EcoTEC plus 618 setup not working

27 Sep 2017
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United Kingdom
I recently moved into a house and the boiler installed is a Vaillant EcoTEC plus 618. There is hot water tank for the shower downstairs and that has a water thermostat on it too.

Boiler: Vaillant EcoTEC plus 618
Hive Dual Channel

I have attached the current wiring of the Hive, which does not work till this day. Currently hot water only comes on if the heating is on. This should not be the case.

I have attached a picture of all the wiring, maybe someone can work it out.

The Hive Thermostat is connected wirelessly and the old Thermostat wiring have been disconnected.

I just need the Hive to control the hot water and heating separately.

Also if you notice there is the Valves that control the water flow for the hot water I believe.

The Hive Receiver, this attached to dual channel Water and Heating

View attachment 127622

The boiler wiring


The black wires control the valves

Junction box in the loft, where the wires from the boiler, controller, valve, Thermostat for tank all meet.


the hive 2 channel control receiver unit

Thank you



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The yellow wire in the junction box needs reconnecting to the terminal that has the red wire in it, would be my best guess. Obviously turn the power off before fiddling with any wires!
Thank you John, I will give it a try, I played around with it to try get it to work before I posted this. I will pay attention to the yellow wire. I am thinking now I should of got a nest, am told its allot better but we will see if I cannot get this hive working, I will switch to nest and get it installed by someone who can do all the wiring at the same time.
The hot water cylinder thermostat is responsible for starting up the boiler when only the hot water is required. [When the central heating comes on, that has a separate way of starting the boiler and so both hot water and heating will heat up]

If you have basic electric skills, a multimeter and know how to use it, then the first check would be to see that the hot water 'on' signal from the hot water cylinder thermostat is connected to the boilers switched live.

If the above means nothing to you or you can't understand it, then I would suggest that you engage the services of a professional. Swapping wires round without understanding what you are doing may cause damage your boiler, its connected controls, or worse.

Unfortunately the wiring centre connections, cables used and method of connection vary from installation to installation according to the personal preferences of the original installer, so it's not possible to give a definitive answer from your photo of the wiring centre without knowing what the other end of each of the wires is connected to.
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I agree with you, will try to work it out and if it gets over my head, I will just have to get someone in.
A crystal ball is needed considering where all the cables lead to ;)

To get help you need to give the relevant info (y)
the first check would be to see that the hot water 'on' signal from the hot water cylinder thermostat is connected to the boilers switched live.
If you look carefully at the pics you will see there are two motorized valves. So it is an S plan, not the Y plan as you have assumed.


It would help if we knew what each white cable was connected to (the blacks are for the two valves - that's standard).
Yes you are right. I had in mind the OP had said it was a Y Plan, but looking back it would appear not. Must have got it confused with another thread. :oops:

However, in the photo, we can't actually see "two motorised valves" only two black cables that would have been supplied with a motorised valve. I remember one installation I saw (in person, not on here) where the cable from a old faulty MV had been cut off and used to connect the boiler to the wiring centre. I can see that's not the case here though, but it explains why knowing what all of the wires connect to at the far end is important.

I am always bemused by OP's that send us a photo of only the wiring centre and expect us to mind read the original installers thinking and know what's on the other end.
Hi Stem, really sorry about the lack of my photos and description... I have traced the wires and labelled the cables.

The hive is two channel to control water and heating. The tank has a thermostat that also if the water falls under a certain temperature I guess causes the water to be heated up.

I have updated the pictures but the wiring is a bit messed up. If I cannot get this working tonight I will have to get an engineer in to (I put my hands up) clean up the mess I caused.
A bit messed up?! The wiring is all over the place! I would start again and do it properly! The hive is clearly wired wrong, and with the hot water switched off the yellow wire that is floating about will become live. The wiring is currently in an unsatisfactory condition. I would recommend not powering it up again until the wiring has been installed to a good standard. There is nothing special about this heating system, it just needs wiring to the wiring diagram. (and to a standard that meets the electrical regulations!)
a bit is understatement, so your just telling me to give up and get it done properly.... am 90% thinking to go in that direction..... am worried when I buy the new echo, it will tell me to hit the highway....cause my wiring is wrong...
The way your hive dual channel backplate is wired is wrong,that's the setup I'd expect of a combi boiler. Also the hive backplate is white ? Did you originally have a dual programmer with wireless room thermostat and receiver?
The hive dual channel receiver would take place of your original programmer (assuming dual) the only change req would be if you had a hard wired room thermostat the CH on from the programmer would need to be relocated to the brown of your CH zone valve. If you already had wireless room thermostat,then the CH on from your original programmer that would go to "1" on the current receiver needs to go to brown of your CH zone valve in wiring centre.DHW stays same as your previous programmer still governed by the cylinder stat but programmed by Hive
No I didnt, I have posted the job on mybuilder to get a proper engineer to look at it. I gave up. Better get someone who knows what to do then burn the house down or electrocute myself. Once done I will post the details and new photos of the setup here.
Did you try connecting the yellow wire to the terminal with the red wire from the cylinder stat as I suggested?
Why have you changed the position of the black wire from the hive in the junction box? It should be to the brown wire on the heating valve like it was before.
Why have you changed the position of the yellow wire from 3 to 1 on the hive backplate.

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