Hi,
I am planning on installing the hive kit to replace my conventional boiler and thermostat setup. Before I start would appreciate some help running through the approach. The current system is a glow worm 60ff linked to a lifestyle LP241 controller and RS1 room thermostat.
Pictures of the existing wiring:
Controller:
Thermostat:
Junction box:
In terms of the install I am expecting the Hive Controller to be a direct replacement for the lifestyle LP241 (straight swap out)
I know I have to bypass/remove the RS1 thermostat as this will be replaced by the Hive unit. In following the cables back to the junction box the top 3 cables appear to go directly to the boiler. The 4th from the top I believe goes to the room thermostat and the 3 lower cables going to the mid position actuator (3 port valve) black lead, water tank thermostat white cable and pump white cable.
To bypass the room thermostat, is the safest approach to disconnect the 4th cable from the top and wire into a separate junction block? (completely separating the cables from the rest of the junction block?) I can then do the same at the other end (room thermostat) leaving the 'dead' cable in situ?
The existing controller is set to Pump rather than gravity, and I understand the hive default is fully pumped so no changes are required.
My last query relates to another thread on this forum whereby another user has a problem with a 60ff boiler and hive install https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/hive-wired-wrong.418141/
This sounds like a fault with the glow worm system - is there anyway of knowing if the capacitor used is required prior to hive install? If so where would I install it at the junction block?
Many thanks for any help offered.
I am planning on installing the hive kit to replace my conventional boiler and thermostat setup. Before I start would appreciate some help running through the approach. The current system is a glow worm 60ff linked to a lifestyle LP241 controller and RS1 room thermostat.
Pictures of the existing wiring:
Controller:
Thermostat:
Junction box:
In terms of the install I am expecting the Hive Controller to be a direct replacement for the lifestyle LP241 (straight swap out)
I know I have to bypass/remove the RS1 thermostat as this will be replaced by the Hive unit. In following the cables back to the junction box the top 3 cables appear to go directly to the boiler. The 4th from the top I believe goes to the room thermostat and the 3 lower cables going to the mid position actuator (3 port valve) black lead, water tank thermostat white cable and pump white cable.
To bypass the room thermostat, is the safest approach to disconnect the 4th cable from the top and wire into a separate junction block? (completely separating the cables from the rest of the junction block?) I can then do the same at the other end (room thermostat) leaving the 'dead' cable in situ?
The existing controller is set to Pump rather than gravity, and I understand the hive default is fully pumped so no changes are required.
My last query relates to another thread on this forum whereby another user has a problem with a 60ff boiler and hive install https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/hive-wired-wrong.418141/
This sounds like a fault with the glow worm system - is there anyway of knowing if the capacitor used is required prior to hive install? If so where would I install it at the junction block?
Many thanks for any help offered.