Hive installation problems

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29 Nov 2016
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United Kingdom
Boiler: Baxi Duo-Tec Combi Boiler
Salus RT500BC Programmable Digital Thermostat with RF Boiler Control

Hi, New here so please be gentle:unsure: I have just got the Hive 2 system and started fitting it to my system. I removed a Honeywell R6660D control box and replaced it with the Hive receiver, I'm confident that I changed the wires over correctly after following another post on here.

The problem is that when I switched the power back on it says to test your wiring push the 'central heating' button on the receiver and the green light should come on (it does) and the boiler should fire up but unfortunately it doesn't. The system it seems is still being controlled by the Salus RF boiler control and the wireless thermostat.

My question is should I remove the RF boiler controller? And if so how?

The item circled red in the image is the item I am referring to as the RF boiler controller


Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
 
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Usually the integral boiler control has to be set to permanently 'on' and if it is wired in properly, the Hive will then take control. Otherwise the Salus will need to be removed and the boiler wiring changed.
 
Hi Stem, thanks for the reply. I did sort of think that I had to move the switch onto the salus unit in the boiler to permanently on but when I do this the central heating is on permanently and the Hive unit will not control the boiler :(

This is how I have my Hive control unit wired up

And this is the wiring diagram for the Hive

If you or anybody else that is watching could confirm the wiring looks correct I would be obliged.
 
That bit looks OK as far as I can see, assuming the other ends of the wires go where they should. Well done with the brown sleeve on the black wire, many ahem ...professionals, don't do that. What is the other end of it connected to?

What we need now is the wiring diagram of the Salus and how it connects to the boiler wiring.

Have you tried using the Hive with the Salus permanently set to 'off'?
 
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I think we may be getting somewhere as to why it isn't working. The cable with the black wire in it goes to another junction box which is the photo below BUT the black wire has been cut at the junction box end so doesn't connect to anything :(


And this is the Salus wiring diagram
 
OK, so I believe that the wires from the Salus terminals 3 & 4 will go to terminals 1 & 2 at the terminal box inside the hinged cover of your boiler. Is this correct?
 
Hi Stem, I can't thank you enough for helping like this.

OK I've dropped the fold down panel on the boiler and this is what the cable goes into


It's the white cable on the left that is coming from the junction box.
 
The white cable is the mains supply. I can't see any wiring for the Salus there.

The terminals I was referring to [1 & 2] are the ones at the top with the yellow link in.

Anyway, the cable from the Hive terminal 3 'Heating on' (the black one with the brown sleeve that doesn't go anywhere) needs to go to terminal 1 of the boiler which is labelled 'switched live in' and the yellow link removed. Then the Hive should then work, but only when the Salus is set permanently 'on' to remove the Salus from the boiler we need to know where it is wired to.
 
The Salus unit seems to be plugged into the faceplate of the boiler and I have removed the cover on the back to reveal this


Still not sure if that is what want you need to see.

But if I get a length of 4 core cable and run a black wire from the Hive unit to the yellow loop wire as you suggested I can live with just leaving the Salus switched to permanently on. Is there a reason the boiler fitter didn't continue the black wire through?

Also one more question if I may, do you know if I can get the required cable from the likes of B&Q?
 
The photo is very helpful. To remove the Salus from the control of the boiler, simply remove the two black wires from terminals 3 and 4 of the Salus and join them together using a screw terminal connector. You can leave the Neutral and Live connected to terminals 1 & 2 if they can't be easily be insulated and / or removed.

The cable should really probably be heat resistant, at least at the bit that goes into the boiler. I don't think B&Q have heat resistant 4 core, but you could leave the existing in place, or run an additional 2 core cable at the side of it. Screwfix have the correct cable though. See here.

The boiler fitter probably just cut it off because he didn't need it at the time, and so that it didn't float around and inadvertently become live or create a short circuit. I don't suppose the other cable also has a cut off black conductor you could use by any chance.
 
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That's great Stem, I have a Screwfix even closer than B&Q, I'll get somebody to pick it up and get it wired in as you suggested. Thank you so much for your help, I'll let you know how I get on.
 
Great, I look forward to hearing how you get on. It also may help others that come across this thread when looking for something similar.
 
Hi Stem, Just to update you the system is up and running as it was designed with full control via the Hive thermostat or via the phone app, can't thank you enough for the help(y)
 
Good job, well done, and thanks for the update.
Thanks Stem. I had a similar setup (switch Baxi to Potterton), which I have managed to get it working following your advice.

I Installed a 4 core cable between the Hive reveiver and boiler, making connections direct to the boiler terminal block. The black cable in the 4 core connected to terminal 1 in at the boiler side (with loop between T1 & T2 removed) and Terminal 3 at the hive receiver.

I have opted to leave the Salus receiver in place and change the setting to permanently on. So far, Hive is controlling the heating as expected. Massive thanks to you and also to Dan for the photos, which enabled me to install my Hive Active heating.
 
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